GET THE LOOK:
Junya Watanabe Stretch-jersey Blouse
KALLMEYER Alyse Asymmetric Pleated Silk-chiffon Skirt
Alaïa Cutout Suede Ankle Boots
Of all the fashion capitals, New York seems to appreciate female designers the most. They don’t just flourish creatively here, but also seem to feel at ease. That sense of unstrained playfulness was the driving force behind Tory Burch’s spring-summer 2027 collection.
Even if the silhouettes nodded towards the 1940s – think broad shoulders and high-waisted trousers – the designer wanted to find joy in dressing up, with humor as the secret ingredient. She managed to do that effortlessly with a vintage-y pleated dress accessorized with a feather boa, or with the not-so-prim cardigans embroidered with tiny beads. Then there were scarves adorned with tortoiseshell paillettes, like the ones you might find in Chinatown and throw into an outfit simply to dial down the seriousness of everyday life.
There was something beautifully decaying about the glamour of this collection: a woman who seems aware that she should have been born in a different era, and proudly refuses to conform to the reality she’s living in. Walking the streets of New York this week, I saw many women like this – delightfully eccentric and slightly out of place, and making that their power.
Don’t forget to follow Design & Culture by Ed on Instagram.
Hey, did you know about my newsletter – Ed’s Dispatch? Click here to subscribe.
Unveiled during New York Fashion Week, Magda Butrym’s spring-summer 2027 collection, titled “Natalia,” is an homage to Natalia LL – the fearless Polish artist whose work explored the many reaches of femininity.
Preceded by a teaser that reimagines Natalia LL’s “Consumer Art,” the artist’s seminal work from the early 1970s, the collection revolves around the idea of women’s ownership of their own selves. In 1977, Natalia LL arrived in New York and proudly posed with one of the stills from the series, asserting her subversive position in the male-dominated art world. A key figure in Poland’s feminist and conceptual art scene, Natalia LL challenged conventional representations of the female body, turning desire, consumption and the gaze into the very subjects of her work. The cheeky, flirtatious woman depicted in the now-iconic, film-like frame is not merely the subject but, above all, the author of her own image – the muse of her own making, creating her own vision of reality.
Almost five decades later, the story makes a return to New York. As Magda presents her collection in the city for the first time and opens her first flagship boutique here, Natalia LL’s arrival in New York acquires a new resonance: two Polish women, separated by generations and working in different disciplines, arriving in the city on their own terms and staking out a space for their vision. “The gaze is always female. The touch is always a woman’s. The image belongs to her,” is how Magda sums up the moment’s ethos – and her creative dialogue with the late artist she admires, whose work has helped shape her vision of femininity. READ MY FULL TEXT HERE.
Show credits: Creative Director Magda Butrym / Stylist Jacob K / Casting Julia Lange / Movement Director Emma Chadwick / Set Design Anna Szczęsny / Sound Torso Studio / Make Up Yadim Carranza / Hair Mustafa Yanas / Styling Assistant Ioana Ivan / Art Coordination Edward Kanarecki / Press Spread The Word / Production Warsaw Creatives
Magda Butrym Ruched Floral-print Stretch-silk Mock-neck Top
Magda Butrym Crochet-trimmed Ribbed Wool-jacquard Shorts
Magda Butrym Snake-effect Leather Pumps
Magda Butrym Glossed-leather Jacket
Magda Butrym Lace-trimmed Cotton And Linen-blend Mini Skirt