In his 10th anniversary show for Loewe, Jonathan Anderson wasn’t looking back at his all-time hits. It’s Jonathan: he’s a designer that is always looking forward. The delightfully surreal, but not overly on-the-nose collection began with a bouncingly light, flowered, off-the-shoulder crinoline dress. Corseting-free and hands in pockets, the look – which reappearead a couple of times in the show – felt absolutely contemporary and cool (unlike the stuffy prettiness at Alessandro Michele’s Valentino debut). Anderson finds sheer pleasure in messing with classicism. References to classical composers and painters on T-shirts – made in feathers – pictured Mozart, Chopin, Bach, Van Gogh’s Sunflowers, and a Manet soldier boy. “I like this idea that they’re kind of like pinup rock stars,” Anderson said. “Like when you go to a museum or you go to a concert: experiential things that you want to take a memento of with you. The idea that music reminds us of moments in our lives.” Then there were his multiple reimagined French golden age couture dresses, all hoops and semisheer flower prints and trapeze-line silhouettes abbreviated to very short minis. Worn with sneakers, there was nothing fussy about his take on eveningwear. Again, a contemporary feel that many, many designers had a hard time grasping this season.

And to celebrate Jonathan Anderson’s victorious decade at Loewe…

ED’s SELECTION:

Loewe Orange Blossom Scented Candle

Loewe Toy Paneled Denim Ankle Boots

Loewe Argyle Wool Sweater

Loewe Leather-trimmed Padded Shell Bomber Jacket

Loewe Puzzle Fold Convertible Medium Leather Tote

Loewe Leopard-print Calf Hair Pumps

Loewe Asymmetric Floral-print Silk Dress

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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