GET THE LOOK:
BLAZÉ Milano Jealousy Cotton-velvet Jacket
AGOLDE Delphi Ribbed Jersey Top
Magda Butrym Lace-trimmed Silk-satin Midi Skirt
Ancient Greek Sandals The Slipper Satin Mules
LOEWE Leather-trimmed Cotton-blend Peplum Jacket
Golden Goose Kim High-rise Boyfriend Jeans
Grazia and Marica Vozza Yellow Chalcedony and Tiger’s Eye Fish Pendant Necklace
Chloé Susanna Studded Leather Ankle Boots
Gabriela Hearst Large Crossover Knit Bag in Red, Orange & Yellow Cashmere
Rick Owens’s latest collection? Hard as ice-cold metal, raw as Kim Gordon’s newest song, emotionally explosive like a Lynne Ramsay film – yet, at the same time, utterly and devastatingly beautiful. This season, the designer was invested in the idea of uniforms: they command presence and provoke threat, but once mocked, they can easily tip into something almost hilarious. It was therefore intriguing to see how Owens reimagined hyper-masculine utilitarianism within his twisted universe, where darkness functions as the true source of light.
The athletic models appeared even more otherworldly in elongated, skin-tight silhouettes, ornamented with floor-sweeping tentacles, razor-sharp shoulder pads, and origami-like constructions that quite literally enveloped the wearer. Color-washed, cropped gothic cashmere coats took on a grunge edge when paired with stone-washed pants, while Rick’s signature high-platform boots pushed each look into even more extreme, radical territory. It’s a tough world out there, and Owens designs clothes that protect you – physically and mentally – from the harsh detriments of reality.
Rick Owens Jumbo Tabard Silk-chiffon Turtleneck Blouse
Rick Owens x Dr. Martens 1460 Quad Sole Megalace Leather Ankle Boots
Rick Owens Triple Donut Convertible Cashmere Sweater
Rick Owens Cropped Bleached Brushed-cotton Bomber Jacket
Rick Owens Satin Wide-leg Cargo Pants
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Remember my very real concerns about this season’s menswear turning conservative? Jonathan Anderson erased them the second the first look of his sophomore Dior menswear collection hit the runway. It felt like a bow-wow-wow moment of unfiltered fashion that is actually fashion, for Christ’s sake.
The yellow wigs by Guido Palau, à la Pam Hogg, felt like the much-needed final disruption of the contemporary Dior image – one long orchestrated by former creative directors Maria Grazia Chiuri and Kim Jones. Goodbye neatness and primness; hello decadence, flamboyance, drama. This collection cut the umbilical cord to anything preppy, veering into directions nobody could have fathomed. READ MY FULL REVIEW HERE.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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