Back In South of France. Jacquemus SS24

January 29, 2024 | Design & Culture by Ed

Jacquemus once again picked a signature, French location for his see-now-buy-now fashion show. I, personally, adore Fondation Maeght: when I visited it a couple of years ago, I was so entranced by the beauty of this art institution I never wanted to leave. Seasons ago, Nicolas Ghesquière of Louis Vuitton chose the Saint-Paul-de-Vence museum and its yards as his cruise venue, and he showed there some of his finest work ever. This place is a perfect location for a fashion show, yes – but only when the clothes match up to it, to all the Giacomettis and Matisses and Chagalls. Or at least build an intriguing, contextual, visual dialogue. I missed that part about Simon Porte Jacquemus‘ spring-summer 2024 collection. The rigid, overly statuesque silhouettes read and felt flat, some looks were even unflattering. The tailoring was just OK, just like the simplistic eveningwear. A pop of fringes here, a bit of leopard print there… it was all Insta-photogenic, but nothing else. A collection that would do much better in a white-cube setting in Paris. Although Jacquemus is repeatedly called a “marketing genius“, I still can’t grasp the connection between this line-up and the Kristin-Davis-as-Charlotte-York promo. And then Kylie Jenner and Julia Roberts in the f-row. Make it make sense.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Fondation Maeght / Côte d’Azur

February 7, 2020 | Design & Culture by Ed

Visiting this place has always been my dream. Fondation Maeght is France’s most important private art foundation and among the world-leading cultural institutions. It was created by Aimé and Marguerite Maeght, a visionary couple of publishers and art dealers, who represented and were friends with some of the most important artists of the 20th century, including Joan Miró, Alexander Calder, Georges Braque, Alberto Giacometti, Marc Chagall and many others. The Maeght Foundation was inaugurated back in 1964 and instantly became the new art mecca. Located near the famous village of Saint-Paul de Vence the foundation is situated in the incredible architectural complex designed by Josep Lluís Sert. Painters and sculptors worked in collaboration with the Catalan architect to create a place where art, nature and architecture blend in perfect harmony. The Foundation’s highlights include the Giacometti courtyard (remember Louis Vuitton’s resort 2019 collection? It was staged right here!), featuring an exceptional ensemble of sculptures by the Swiss artist, the Miró labyrinth, a whimsical sculpture garden by the Catalan artist, monumental mural mosaics by Marc Chagall and Pierre Tal Coat, a pool designed by Georges Braque as well as a mechanical fountain designed by Pol Bury. Visitors can also enjoy the sculpture garden, with a rotating selection of works by Calder, Takis, Miro, Arp and other, two rooftop terraces with spectacular views, exhibition galleries hosting temporary exhibition as well as selected works from the permanent collection, a consecrated chapel and a library. Looking back at the photos I took there, I still can feel this unique combination of nature and silence meeting some of my all time favourite artists (that created the appealing aura of Côte d’Azur).

All photos by Edward Kanarecki.

Art and Riviera. Louis Vuitton Resort 2019

June 6, 2018June 6, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

I know, I know. It seems that Louis Vuitton‘s resort 2019 collection took place ages ago. But I’ve been holidaying for a while in the Algarve region of Portugal, and hey – shouldn’t we all slow down the pace in the industry? Shall we make make reflection, not the instantness, a priority?

Nicolas Ghesquiere‘s take on French Riviera’s artistic aura was brilliantly executed at the Fondation Maeght in St. Paul-de-Vence. The runway, filled with Giacometti sculptures, was a perfect backdrop for the season’s flowing dresses, evening tops with feathers and deconstructed vests. The collection is full of contrasts. Leather over-the-knee sneaker-boots clashed with feminine flou of some of the outing’s most refined looks, while 80s volumes and prints were put next to boudoir-esque pink satin and lace. Shortly, Nicolas celebrates diversity in dressing, that used to be rich among the artists who settled across the Riviera.

“What is it today to be an original, [someone] who has her own way of dressing? This bricolage . . . you can start a real movement. I love those people who are eccentric.” Possibly, Ghesquiere had Grace Coddington on his mind, who collaborated on the Vuitton bags the season. The mega-stylist and former creative director of Vogue worked on a collection of bags based on the sketches she does of her beloved cats and Nicolas’ dog. Maybe it’s the sea breeze that’s doing the work, but that was one of the best collections coming from the designer in a while.