Where To Eat in Paris

While now isn’t the moment to dine out (and restaurants are closed nearly everywhere for safety reasons), we can all look forward to our post-confinement lunches and brunches (at some point) in the future. Here are six spots, old and new, I enjoyed the most during my last stay in Paris.

Carbón

Located in the heart of Le Marais distict, Carbón is an ode to nature, a place where the most ancestral cooking technique in the world, fire, encounters the products of land and sea in their extreme nudity. The regularly-changing menu will surprise you with such offerings as oysers infused in coffee or different sorts of ceviche. Its contemporary decor provides a stylish backdrop whether you’re with friends (the sharing plates are perfect for a relaxed dinner) or looking for a more romantic spot. There’s also a great “secret” speakeasy bar, La Mina, hidden away downstairs serving up delicious craft cocktails.

14 Rue Charlot

Le Moulin De La Vierge

You could easily assume that Le Moulin de la Vierge is simply a typical neighbourhood bakery in the sleepy 15th district, however it’s much, much more. The owner is dedicated to preserving the art nouveau architecture of each of his close-to-each-other patisserie stores. The décor is reminiscent of a 19th century Parisian boutique the pastries are so, so delicious (especially chocolate croissants). You might also be tempted to taste one of the numerous pastries like the exquisite éclairs or the mouth-watering tarts. Mille-feuille lovers will also find happiness.

10 Place des Petits Pères

La Belle Epoque

This upscale and mundane dining room that seems to have existed since forever has imposed itself as “the” must-go hangout for the chic, Parisian crowd. A wired atmosphere, a super discrete decor with an elegant 19th century tiling… here is the ideal place to show up with friends and nibble on trendy vintage dishes (leek in vinaigrette sauce, veal chops, ceviche and French style burgers, for a good example).

36 Rue des Petits Champs

Mara by Caché

Charming dining spot in Le Marais that celebrates contemporary Mediterranean cuisine. The sharing menu has a lovely selection of raw fish (seriole carpaccio served in mango sauce, sea bream ceviche with citrus fruits…), shellfish and crustaceans, but also gourmet desserts (including rousquille, a Catalan dessert served with nougat ice cream and chocolate sauce ). All accompanied by a superb selection of niche, natural wines.

27 Rue de Saintonge

Oursin

If you’re missing the sun and the sea, head to the second floor of Galeries Lafayette Champs-Elysées, where Simon Porte Jacquemus has opened Oursin in collaboration with Caviar Kaspia. After Citron, his sunny café located just a floor below, the darling of the fashion world continues telling Provençal stories in an atmosphere that’s dripping with la dolce vita: whitewashed walls, ecru banquettes, braided wicker chairs, beautiful ceramics, draping ivy, Italian melodies… In the kitchen, you’ll find chef Erica Archambault sending out southern dishes: delicious fried artichokes with Greek yogurt and lemon zest; incredibly tender grilled octopus with cherry tomatoes, potatoes and a tomato sauce with capers – all sponged up with squid ink bread; plus an incredible chocolate ganache with yogurt sorbet and blueberries for dessert. The plates – all hand-made by Daphne Leon – are as good as the food.

60 Avenue des Champs-Élysées

Le Costes

This place is old and really well-known, but still, no other restaurant has reached the level of cool chic that Le Costes does so effortlessly for years. The opulent Second Empire décor designed by Jacques Garcia that’s a cross between a brothel and a trip to Egypt, with a lineup that brings together the fashion crowd (especially during fashion week. We were sitting next to @ireneisgood and System’s Elizabeth Von Guttman – and we had a very lovely chat…). The cuisine here is properly eclectic. The menu shifts between healthy options (a  avocado/olive oil/lemon tartine, fresh bass tartare…) and fusion dishes (crispy chicken spring rolls – they are the best – and Thai-style marinated steak) to updated classics: a beautiful Niçoise salad upgraded to include flash-seared fresh tuna or a delightful chicken breast served with fries. Take the divine pavlova with red berries and voluptuous meringue for dessert.

239-241 rue Saint-Honoré

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All photos by Edward Kanarecki.

(P.S. If you are inspired by my Parisian coverage, I’m really happy about, but please have in mind that now isn’t a safe time for any sorts of travelling. Stay at home!)

Sweet Prenzlauerberg

Berlin‘s Prenzlauerberg district is always full of surprises, and this time they were especially sweet. Here are the two amazing spots where you will eat the best Tokyo-inspired ice-cream dessert and a cake that looks too good to eat it.

Tenzan Lab is the place where you will eat the best kakigōri in Berlin. Kakigōri is a Japanese shaved ice dessert flavored with syrup and condensed milk. The one we ordered was served with matcha mascarpone on top, which is the best thing ever (if you love matcha and everything that’s creamy, of course).

Wörther Straße 22

Be Sweet is a vegan patisserie serving all sorts of cakes, tarts and cute desserts. The little, delicious masterpiece we ate was filled with boiled cherries and chocolatte mousse. Heaven. The outside seating area lets you observe Prenzlauerberg’s relaxed, urban rhythm and take a rest.

Kollwitzstraße 37

Baba in Le Marais

Located in Le Marais, Baba is a restaurant open all day for lunch and dinner with a bar service the rest of the time. The place serves a new wave of Mediterranean cuisine mixed with family recipes, contemporary and refined, sometimes eaten with hands. But also, the dishes have a strong Israeli influence, mixed with Italian, Greek, Provençal and North-African flavors. Their tabouleh and beef kefta are my winners. Seasonal cuisine, honest and colorful – it’s really good.

17 rue Charlot / Paris

Photos by Edward Kanarecki.

Vivant

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Arnaud Lacombe and Pierre Touitou’s Vivant reopened towards the end of 2018, and the place went full throttle. With some incredible organic wines, impressive white marble bar table and the view on the chefs working in front of you, this place is the hottest address in Paris right now. Raw cuttlefish rolled like a cigar and marinated in aged soy sauce and shiso leaves; braised chuck steak topped with the mysterious “Mloukhya” sauce; the signature glazed tuna which sparks entire conversations. Book in advance.

43 Rue des Petites Écuries

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Photos by Edward Kanarecki.

Rome Addresses

Planning a trip to Rome? You might want to take a look at the addresses I’ve discovered in this truly magical city.

Trattoria Al Moro is a proper, Roman trattoria with wood panels from the 1920’s, a very Italian, beautifully overcharged interior, and a chic ambience. Their daily specials are always a must, just like the signature Al Moro pasta. For the dessert take the profiteroles. You will ask for more, I tell you.

Vicolo delle Bollette 13

Origami is the best kept secret of the most stylish, Roman women. This unfussy boutique sells clothes of own production – think turtleneck dresses in geometric prints, gorgeous basket totes, loosely fitted cardigans, everything kept shades of ochre, rust and lilac – in very reasonable, affordable prices. The historic, wooden ceiling is an impressive addition to this spot.

Via dei Banchi Vecchi 144

Dana is a store located in a former church. Even the confessional stayed, and now it’s used as a dressing room. We’re in Rome! Independent, small brands from Rome are sold here.

Via del Pellegrino 167

I bet you won’t eat a better pizza in Rome. Pizzeria Da Baffetto is a simple, compact white-tiled restaurant specializing in Roman-style, thin and crispy pizzas. They are so, so good in here. If you don’t want to wait in a line (and they get really big) better come for (early) lunch at around noon.

Via del Governo Vecchio 114

Laity Mbaye’s Metissage atelier. While this man will surely hypnotize you with his look that is a beautiful balance between Italian tailoring and Senegalese origins, please do check out the garments he designs himself and the hand-picked artisanal accessories he sells at his store.

Largo del Pallaro 18

Lou Lou sells curated, very refined brands that all share a poetic, dark aesthetic. Uma Wang, Reinhard Park, Guidi, Sara Lanzi are just some of the labels you will find on the racks of this eclectically furnished store. If you’re looking for a gift, check out their fragrance display filled with niche, Italian names that specialise in true, olfactory experiences.

Via dei Banchi Vecchi, 113

Oh, and Prada‘s huge store that’s just across the Spanish Steps. I mean, how can you not go inside? Some of the leather goods and perfumes are exclusives available only here in Rome.

Via dei Condotti 89

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Photos by Edward Kanarecki.