Playground. Marni Pre-Fall 2018

June 14, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

While Marni‘s Francesco Risso discussed the Dada movement, primitivism and the need for deconstruction in our lives during his pre-fall 2018 presentation for the brand, one thing appeared to be instantly distinct while browsing the new season clothes – the approach that’s far from fashion’s typical ‘bourgeois conventions’. For him, Marni is playful. Francesco’s fascination with children’s intuitive way of learning translates in every single look, and that’s clear if you take a glance at his previous collections as well. From the bear toy necklaces and doll dresses with unfinished trailing threads to hilariously big hats and exaggerated buttons, Risso makes style a playground. But don’t think Marni is overly infantile. No. I perceive it as optimistic, joyously tongue-in-cheek in a way. Even the brand’s new Big Foot sneakers have that sense of humour about them. “Like a kid wearing his dad’s shoes”, the designer noted.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Dessert. Marni AW18

February 26, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Franceso Risso embraces individuality like no other at Marni. Here, at the the most conceptual, Milan-based brand next to Prada, he distorts volumes, combines the most unlikely (peacock feathers as earrings! felted coats made from compressed, recycled textiles!) and has… fun. I bet a word like ‘trend’ doesn’t exist for that immensely talented guy, who can do lady-like cat prints and equally chic plastic wind coats in one collection. I loved everything about this collection, from the heavy dose of bold colours and stylishly cumbersome totes to the bubble-like pumps and 30s-isnpired dresses made, or rather classed, from contrasting materials. Undoubtedly, it’s Milan fashion week’s dessert.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Men’s / Child’s Play. Marni AW18

January 14, 2018January 15, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Unfortunately, fantasy is rare in today’s fashion, especially in case of menswear. However, there’s an exception – it’s Marni‘s creative director, Francesco Risso, who doesn’t only convey a certain feeling of escapism in his work, but also makes it look extremely desirable. If you ask me, I would wear every single piece from his autumn-winter 2018 collection. From those ultra-big coats to fishing boots, from the haphazard, yet lovely, monkey-printed blazers to mis-matched sleeveless knits – everything. The two layered-up ‘blanket’ looks are totally fine, as well. Also, the season’s model casting is outstanding, featuring dandy-ish 40+’s, runway favourites (like Paul Hameline) and real Italian men. Really, really in love.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Out of Her Mind. Marni SS18

September 25, 2017September 25, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

What’s Marni girl like according to Francesco Risso? She’s out of her mind. But in a positive sense, at least this season. It’s Risso’s second women’s runway show at the helm of this Italian brand and it finally builds some image of the designer’s creative direction. The inspiration for the collection came from “two English gardens seen by Tim Burton… with candies“, a nod to the cinematic adaptation of Willy Wonka and his crazy chocolate factory. So, just like in case of Roald Dahl’s original story, don’t expect anything rational from Marni this season, as it’s a fantastic play with literally everything, from the fluffiest bags to most rich and rare textiles like brocade or horsehair. The fur coats were joyously embellished with pink roses, while cocktail dresses torn apart and re-shaped around the body to look less glamorous and more clumsy. Floral prints collage-ed and patchworked with David Salle’s illustrations of smoking females; colourful rhinestone embroideries scattered haphazarly around gowns; earrings and necklaces were bent, becoming wearable sculptures. Looking oddly has always been a style-code at Marni, and Risso gets the point: he no longer terrifies people (see his debut collection…), but appeals with his woman’s spontaneous edge. That’s a candy nobody expected near the end of Milan fashion week, where things felt quite plain in taste.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Best Ugly Shoes Of The Season

August 28, 2017August 28, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Finding those Miu Miu cowboy boots from spring-summer 1999 on the web a few days ago made me think for a while. Those shoes can be worn with the same (or even better today) relevance, whether it’s the 90s or 2017. My other thought was, ‘wait, I’ve seen that shoe shape countless of times this season’s’, starting from Calvin Klein and ending on Louis Vuitton. My last thought, and the most clear-headed one, was simple: they are just ugly. Lets not lie to ourselves, the colour, the wooden heel, the ultimately appalling look of these shoes makes them ugly in every single aspect.

But ugly is fun. And fashion loves fun. So, apparently, fashion loves ugliness. For instance, Miuccia Prada (the designer behind these cowboy stompers above) is the pioneer of ‘ugly’ in fashion, successfully selling nylon backpacks at Prada and pulling the envelope even further each season in questioning the term ‘good taste’. No one can help it – the uglier, the better. But am I frustrated with that fact? The answer is no. I will never forget Phoebe Philo’s massive impact on ugly footwear, after presenting at her Céline spring-summer 2013 runway THOSE sandals with fur. The instant reaction was bad, just read through the self-acclaimed fashionistas’ comments on some of Blogspot’s virtual junk-sites. But, as time has shown, those fluffies weren’t as bad as everybody thought back in 2013. Enter Zara today, and guess what you will find? Every second pair of sandals (and heels) are covered with faux-fur. And no one’s complaining.

If you also have a strange affection for horrendously looking footwear (hope I’m not the only one here), that’s one for you – the season’s nine ugliest shoes, captioned.

We still have to wait a bit for Shayne Oliver‘s debut collection at Helmut Lang. But the brand’s newly revamped website has those boots on-line. They perfectly convey Lang’s unconventional sense for footwear with that shearling fur sticking out. Cringey? Cringey. But cool.

Cowboy boots weren’t the only shoes appearing on Calvin Klein‘s runway. Raf Simons also has in offer these PVC stilettos, in different colours. Plastic and suede, that’s so drastically painful.

Céline site claims that these boots are made in Spain according to traditional shoe-making technique. Sharp in the front, slouchy on the back. That peculiar, square silhouette. One of the seasons stranger things, that’s for sure. But of high quality!

Again, Miu Miu. How many Muppets were killed to make these? Note, they’re vegan.

Francesco Risso‘ debut collection at Marni wasn’t only about really, but really messily edited clothing. The designer wasn’t only slammed by the critics for his ultra-psychedelic take on 60s, 70s, 80s, and God knows what else, but also for his shoes. An edgily curved heel. Patent leather. Fur-trimming. I wrote that ‘the uglier, the better’. Well, here’s an exception.

Miuccia hits this post the third time with her Prada footwear. Fur loafers versus those knee-length monsters. I like the fur story, but the boots with buckles everywhere look lame and nerd, even for Milan.

I love Acne Studios doing ugly shoes every season. So many things are going on here – ribbed knit, rusty suede, some kind of glue-y material and polished leather. Oh dear, what Jonny Johansson is a genius.

Demna Gvasalia spandex boots at Balenciaga are already the brand’s classic, but this season’s version in neon-green is toxic like a tropical frog.

You might easily get lost in these Y / Project boots of gargantuan capacity. Glenn Martens knows no limits, and whatever other say – these shoes are as badass as the collection itself.

Hope nobody suffered while reading this post! It’s fashion, after all.