Free Spirit. Etro Pre-Fall 2022

When you think of Etro, you’ve got an instant image in your head: a boheme free-spirit, wearing layers of paisley-printed chiffon and embroidered suede. She’s a global citizen, but as well quintessentially Italian. Looking at the pre-fall 2022 collection, which oozes with that distinct Etro DNA, the brand’s new investor (LVMH-backed private equity giant L Catterton) is certainly into embracing what the brand stands for. On the creative side, Veronica Etro and brother Kean seem to be energized by the change, working together on updating collections with a younger, gender fluid flavor – a move which has recently led to artistic collaborations with unconventional talents, like the Italian rock band Måneskin and British designer Harris Reed. “It’s about constantly elaborating and expanding our lexicon of wanderlust and bohemia with newness and a fresh ésprit,” Veronica summed up. To boost visual appeal of the signature Etro prints, the designers gave them a lighter spin, making the motifs more rarefied and luminous, “almost if they were floating on a white background”. Oversized intarsia’d and crocheted knitwear was proposed in lieu of outerwear; ponchos, capes and blankets featured in abundance; and piuminos were knitted and textural, quilted with pretty floral-printed linings. Languid loungewear-inspired robes, loose-fitting pajama suits, chic caftan dresses, and kimono jackets were offered in sumptuous printed velvet or elaborate jacquards with a silver sheen. The Etro client – both the one that shopped there 30 years ago and the one that is just starting to invest in a timeless wardrobe – will be happy.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Free Spirit. The Elder Statesman AW18

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The Elders Statesman autumn-winter 2018 collection is the best prove that the season’s most precious and rare collections don’t need the fashion month rush (just around the corner…) in order to be fully appreciated. Greg Chait‘s knitwear (and not only) brand is for the chilled out people, who love quality, and a certain type of free-spirit present in their environment. “In Topanga, you have all these guys and girls who look like gurus, but I argue that you don’t have to look a certain way to meditate.” Well, who doesn’t love a loosely fit, yet delightful, knitted robe or a very, very fine cashmere pullover in tie-dye? While ‘Meditate‘, ‘Absolute Nirvana‘ and cannabis motif reappeared throughout the collection, one can also note the Kama Sutra positions motif on the fleecy knits. I was also happy to see Jatinder Singh Durhailay (whom I’ve  met in Berlin and wrote about few years ago) collaborate on this collection. The artist painted the original miniatures of technicolor yogis that appear as a playful patterned lining. In other words, this collection suddenly makes me feel a great urge for moving to Cali and lead Big Little Lies’ Bonnie kind of life.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Men’s – Gender Fuse. Raf Simons AW15

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Raf Simons is one of those Belgian designers, that always surprise. And, again, I must admit – Raf is much better at his own label than at Dior. Here he can really experiment, have fun. “Youth on a pedestal.” That was Simons explanation of the staging of his show tonight, with its catwalk raised high above the crowd. The models wore almost-floor-length coats, gilets, that could be really analised by the editors.”I wish there could be 10,000 people here tonight,” Simons said of the warehouse on the outskirts of Paris where he staged his show. “A gathering of people, the way it was in the beginning.” After seeing this collection, I thought of first Helmut Lang collections, and Raf Simons archives. This collection, thanks to it’s gender fusing silhouettes, wild doodles placed on the coats, yellow golfs and crotchets, felt so different. Nostalgic. Youthful. Definitely that’s what Raf wanted to produce this season.

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