If you’re a fashion insider, you must have already spotted two or three pastel-coloured fur jackets on the international. street-style scene. There’s a big chance they came straight from Copenhagen’s hottest young label, Saks Potts. The brand’s statement piece stole the spotlight this season, opening the show on Caroline Brasch Nielsen, a runway favourite. In a light-blue shade, covered with lily motif, the outerwear must-have looked charming with simple denim pants and a pair of suede pumps. Saks Potts and its creatice usage of fur has many faces. Shaggy, chocolate-brown Mongolian jacket fur was styled in a casual way with vichy pants, while cute, fluffy pompoms covered a simple, black coat. 70s attitude was present in the air – take a look at the Jane Birkin-flares, and the last look (a floral, pussycat bow dress).
90th anniversary for Fendi is not just an anniversary. It’s an occasion to show off. And Karl Lagerfeld proudly celebrated the event during his last haute couture show for the Italian house, making the entire Rome gasp. The show was literally staged on Trevi Fountain, fresh off a $2.4 million rehab. Like in a fairy-tale, the models walked down a transparent, elevated runway, while Fellini-famed symbol of the eternal city has never looked that glamorous and fashionable. No doubt this fashion show will be remembered forever as one of the most magnificent and daring – this can be easily said about the fur creations, which graced the runway, too.
Since the very beginnings of the brand, Fendi was known for “fun fur” – the most fantastically decorated fur coats and jackets were delivered from Roman ateliers, pleasing the aristocratic Italian families and clients. Lagerfeld embraces Fendi’s specific, couture legacy through fourrure, and autumn-winter 2016 is his second one (the first one was also presented as a winter season last July). Words can’t describe the beauty of these masterpieces. A pink dress seemed to be made out of simple lace, but in fact it was Persian lamb with 5000 hand-cut holes. Mosaic-style scene of an enchanted forest was presented on a mink coat thanks to an old technique of stitching and cutting. Some dresses were appliquéd with hand-sculpted flowers from mink. Crotchet gowns oozed with antique chic, embroidered with long-hair mink and fringed leather. “This is what Fendi is all about. No other fur house in the world does it, or could do it” the creative director said during a press conference. That’s a true statement, Karl.
Maryam Nassir Zadeh is New York’s favourite among stylish, sophisticated and down-to-earth women. Her boutique, with aesthetically curated brands, and her eponymous, namesake label, are known for an affordable, yet profound approach towards fashion you want to wear everyday. For autumn-winter 2016, Maryam is expanding her line, by continuing the denim obsession – a cool, off-beat pencil skirt, as well as patched 501-style pairs of jeans are about to storm the streets. The Woody Allen women, surrounded with calm neutrals, meets a lifey acid green shade of the pussy-cat bow dress; there is also the strong fur game, from cute teddy-bear jacket to a more “investment” coat in a deep, blue colour. When those clothes are going to arrive to the Lower East Side store, a lot of them will sell quick – for now, we can just try to recreate these looks thanks to Zadeh’s masterful styling tips…
Photography by Ana Kraš, aka @teget
Looking at the solemn faces of Rick Owens‘ models, who walked down the concrete runway in their furry, fluidic garments, it’s visible that the designer translates a hard topic into his creative vision. Owens called his new collection “Mastodon“, referring to the world’s global problems by creating a dark, apocalyptic story. The designer mentioned that his life-partner (and my fashion godmother) Michèle Lamy had begun keeping bees on the rooftop of their home in the heart of Paris in order to help them after 2015’s hottest summer – and he instantly thought about the endangered world. ” What about the ecological anxiety we are all feeling? What is the worst possible scenario?”
Definitely, according to Rick, it’s not that bright. Heavy, sheep-skin cocoon-like hoodies were styled with over-sized sweat-pants; black, aviator jackets looked quite mournful on the black and white background. The textures play an important role in this collection – “I want to say I vomited this out,” is how the designer summed up the way the strips of fur and wool bubbled around the bodies of street-cast models. Moreover, some of the looks basically focused on a long, flowing silhouette of a dress – however, the models’ heavy-metal inspired make-ups said a loud NO to any possible, feminine or even gentle side of a man. Even though some of the slouchy pieces felt comforting. “Hope for the best, but prepare for the worst” Owens added pessimistically.
Even though these clothes will hit the stores only in June, Rochas delivered its pre-fall 2016 collection just in time before Christmas and New Year Eve fuss. Literally, this collection is a treasury of tips for a chic party outfit. Alessandro Dell’AcQua, who celebrates his second year at this heritage couture house, knows the codes of Rochas inside out – the meticulously embroidered silks, masterful Chantilly lace usage and the richness of textiles is not strange to him at all, but rather makes him feel like in his opulent fashion heaven. Also, Alessandro’s all-time favourite fashion trick for a slight granny-elegance update is here – socks worn with fancy pussy-bow pumps. This season, the fur game is strong for Rochas, too – the beautiful shades of blue, chestnut and burgundy made the variety of outerwear look more than fun. The non-chalance kept in the slouchy, fur stoles and the on-the-go idea of putting a slip-dress over a t-shirt will never disappoint or bore. And definitely not during a tasteful, New Year party.
The last fourrure was presented 90 years ago. Two days ago, Karl Lagerfeld, the creative director of Fendi, showed the world what is the definite fur splendor. As the name fourrure might suggest, it is a haute couture collection which is utterly focused on… fur. Chinchilla, sable and mink were presented in form of long, floor-weeping coats, flesh explosing jumpsuit and amazingly detailed sweaters – and these were not only interesting because of the fact they were made from a fusion of cashmere and fluff, but because they were embellished with huge flowers, of course shaped from fur. The cape worn by Julia Nobis at the end of the show may have been all about feathers “transforming” into a silver-tipped skirt, which set our minds on a cross-species category search. PETA was set at bay during the fashion show – and all your furry fantasies became real.
The new era at Gucci which appeared within the arrival of Alessandro Michele brought a lot of surprises. For example, these loafers. At first sight, they look like the famous, super-luxe Gucci jetset loafers. But then, the luxurious boredom is broken thanks to the fur-filled lining. Aren’t they… insane? I mean, they are too fun for office and too fancy for a pajama party, but in overall, they are great. Oh, and they are totally unisex.
Yay! Fluffy shoes are back! And in pink. Thankfully, Humberto Leon and Carol Lim again caught the wave of cool. The pre-fall is fun, modern and kawaii – just like Kenzo Tagada’s legacy. The main theme of the collection were nomad tribes – their culture was presented on the designers mood-board, causing a beautiful textile mix – fur, velvet, wool, rubber, satin… these huge parkas are seriously eye-catchy. A total yes to them, and to Humberto & Carol.
One thing counts most on my Fall wishlist – the Acne Studios balto slippers made of lambskin fur with a thick, rubber lug sole. These super normcore shoes are going to be perfect for cold snowy days and cozy evenings in front of the fireplace. They are available in brown and black colour, and are totally unisex… the photo above is from Mohawk General Store in Pasadena.