Gianni Versace

Believe it or not, Gianni Versace was murdered 20 years ago, in the front of his Miami mansion. After his death, the fashion world drowned in sadness and grief – that was the end of an era of joy, sex and beauty. But, as its visible in 2017, Gianni’s soul is with us and his aesthetic is as relevant as ever – via Donetella Versace‘s medium. Yesterday was a fashion bomb in Milan, with Versace‘s absolute hits taken out of the archives. ‘Andy Warhol’, ‘My Friend Elton’, ‘Native Americans’, ‘Metal Mesh’, ‘Icons’, ‘Vogue’, ‘Animalia’ – all those wild and opulent prints, that used to explode in iconic ad campaigns by Richard Avedon, are revived. And alive. For good.

It’s hard to review a show like this, because it’s a breathing fashion legacy that has already been discussed from A to Z decades ago. Gianni’s signatures were placed on everything, from leggings to dresses, while some of the pieces that appeared to be too hard to replicate were taken straight out of the archives to the fashion show. But the models were the real stars of the runway: Instagirls (Hadid sisters) and mega-model off-springs (Kasia Gerber) sashayed along such models like Anja Rubik, Doutzen Krous and Mica Arganaraz in regular ready-to-wear; the runway queens, who launched their careers first walking for Gianni, closed the show with a fierce walk to the tune of George Michael’s ‘Freedom’. Naomi, Helena, Claudia, Cindy and Carla, the original muses, were all here (I just missed Linda…). Fashion loves spectacles. But that wasn’t a spectacle – that was an emotional ode to a genius, an icon, and her brother. Bravo, Donatella.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Naomi Campbell walked down the runway like only Naomi can, in a jacket held together with crystal hooks and eyes. Underneath she wore a black lace bra, inspired with Madonna, and she was flashing a substantial swath of upper thigh. That was amazing. The icon in pretty new, fresh form, was mind blowing. The collection of Atelier Versace by Donatella Versace was all about bright past. First of all you need to know, that Donatella is recreating only two years, after a long break when Gianni died. This is like a renaissance. I should say, that for real Atelier Versace is now and then two much better than all these Chanel and Dior Haute Couture… All the Sergeenko’s, Valli’s, Jarrar’s need to hide and will never be as good as Atelier. Gianni is dead, but Donatella lives, and she really makes the label up. This is fantastic. I love it. Really.
This collection wasn’t about shitty minimalism but is propagated by Dior, or cheap looking wedding dresses by Chanel. The details- crystal hooks, fur, amazing tailor ship, best quality. And a cat suit that plunged down to Lindsey Wixson’s navel was paneled from lace, net, and handwoven leather. That piece was the least thirties-ish of the lot, but all of the models wore real diamond jewelry designed by Versace. I feel the Gianni spirit here!!!