Elizabeth. Giles SS16

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To understand Giles‘s spring-summer 2016 collection, it’s good to look at the last few outfits. The laser-cut, micro-pleated, satin organza gown was worn by the one and only, red-haired Karen Elson. She emerged, looking at the audience with a royal manner, like the clone of Queen Elizabeth I in some kind of postapocalyptic, futuristic times. The show was set in the Elizabethan-era Banqueting Room in Whitehall, which was booked by Giles Deacon already a year ago – however, the place precisely reflected the collection’s mood. All the historic references played a role in the textile usage – Baroque wallpaper florals and embroideries based on tapestries look stunning on everything. There is no Giles collection without a proper dose of drama, too. The designer indulged himself in voluminous skirts, balloon-shaped sleeves and dresses with parachute hems or underlying layers of tulle. The long, white shirt-dress worn by Natalie Westling is the key piece to look forward next season. And coming back to the model casting, Giles was over-the-top with the hottest faces: Edie Campbell, Erin O’Connor, Molly Bair, Damaris Goddrie, Anna Cleveland and many more walked the runway last night.

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Drama at it’s Best. Giles AW15

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Drama is the thing this season, that’s sure. After Marc Jacobs (the heavy Diana Vreeland boheme), Thomas Tait (elusive horror mood) and Thom Browne (a 19th century hospital vs. mafioso funeral), Giles Deacon shows us that a fashion show is not only a stiff presentation of clothes – it’s a performance. It’s a stage for actors – models – showing emotions through their walk and clothes. And in this statement, I would like to highlight Giles drama the most. The show was just extraordinary – Edie Campbell wore a latex Victorian blazer; Stella Lucia had a pink ribbon tied around her chiffon turtleneck – dress; Anna Cleveland, the star of this show, simply danced in a twirling organza gown. All girls had black lips and something ultra-vivid about them – maybe it’s Katie Grand’s styling? Or the old-fashioned beauty of British fashion shows? I can’t explain. But I am truly seduced by Giles for fall.

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