The Resort 2014 is already arriving everyday with tones of new collcetions, and it’s the time when the the hottest designers of New York already went for a nap, and the Europeans have just woke up before the Resort/Haute Couture Fashion Weeks. So here it is- a short review of Resort’14 in New York, that covers Proenza Schouler, Altuzarra, Balenciaga (it’s Parisian, but for me, because of Wang as head, it’s New York), Derek Lam and Jason Wu. So lets begin with… The PS brothers, Proenza Schouler!
Well, Proenza Schouler is getting every season more mature and colourless, as you can see. Creme, white and grey colours, comfortable forms and warm prints. And it looks very similar to the Pre-Fall collection. There is no excitment, because clearly Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez stand for practicality, and their fantastic unique ideas are on the other side. Sad, because that was really different from others. Now it’s a bit Ralph Lauren- boring, classical.
From some time I really love what Joseph Altuzarra is doing recently- first he did a amazing AW13 collection, then took Stella Tennant as a muse… The resort is how he said, sensitive and very femine, but not as sexy as his past ones. We’ve got some wild west pants here and a bit cowboy shirts mixed with modern elegance. Beautiful fur scarves, white dresses, lace and gold, do really match Altuzarra style! 
No, I’m not crazy. Balenciaga officially IS Parisian, but since Alexander Wang is the creative director, it lost all Parisian Chick. The collection began from Wang’s visit at Cristobal Balenciaga Museum. Yes. Then, Alex did nothing more, but copied the archives and made them black and white. When Ghesquiere designed Balenciaga, it was inspired by archives, but it was futuristic, edgy, modern. Now, with Mr. Wang it looks only into past, and just makes a first look that it’s SO FRESH bacause of the colour palette. I thought it won’t be so bad. Now even Hedi Slimane at Saint Laurent is much more better for me.
Derel Lam maybe is not a newcomer, but for sure a shooting star of NYC Fashion. This resort was minimalistic, eometrical and full of inovative fabrics. The dresses are at the time perfect for a shopping at Bergdof’s Goodman, for a run in Central Park and as well for a dinner in Nobu Tribeca. Is it a New York Celine? For now I see big future for Derek!
Jason Wu suprised me this Resort season. I usuall didn’t really like Jason Wu’s collection because they were always so formal. But, this time I am pleased! Lots of new materials, fantastic paradise prints, jeans jacketa and midi skirts, plastic trench coats, pink bra’s, transparent lace dresses… There is really a lot of telling. For sure Michelle Obama won’t wear any of these, but it looks more affordable than ever! Jason Wu, big bravo’s for the best (exequies with Marc Jacobs galmorous collection I wrote few days ago)!
Gold
Tilda Swinton in Cannes
While all the stars like Anne Hathaway or Laetisia Casta wear their Dior’s and Valentino’s Couture gowns, Tilda Swinton never go on the easier path. I mean, she looks easier (not so tired like Uma Thurman in this silver Versace dress), but much more stylish. Tilda breaks all stereotypes of a costume at a big Gala. We will not see her in Gucci nor Chanel, but in… Haider Ackerman! Just like this time! Swinton, that look a bit like David Bowie, reminds me of stylish rock and roll in this sequined golden jumsuit by Paris based designer. She is my definite number one this year at Cannes Festival!
Rick’s World
😲😲😲 Rick Owens. A living inspiration of Paris fashion. So beautiful. 😲😲😲
Unusual. Maison Martin Margiela AW13
Maison Martin Margiela as always went to a fashion lab and made a really, really good collection. What was the thing that was most buzzed about? Of course these totally not normal hand cuffs, that were over big and painted and the a special for all girls with long hair- a hair pocket on the back of nearly all jackets and tops! The trousers had some cool colour lines on the sides giving it a a bit more sophisticated look!
The last look is as always most special at Margiela- totally gold dress from a fabric that reminds me of a kind of heavy harpet a velvet or window cloth… However it looked stunning! There was also a version of a patchwork sweater. MMM never disapoints. And if it does (rarely) it’s always risktaking and experimental!
Love Affair. Marc Jacobs AW13
Marc Jacobs fall was a melancholic and beautiful love affair. It was inspired with The Film Noir and it was dipped like in a opium perfume. It was lady like and very sexual, delicate but with power. It was glamorous and sensual and it was totally taken out from iconic imagery of Lauren Bacall in her 1940’s finest. Luxury mink stoles, silk pajama’s like tops, pencil skirts, silky trousers, clingy knits, overcoats and wide lapels and T Strap heels (that are toatally in fashion this season) were presented.
The setting was also glamour and romantic. The moonlight and a dark, musky atmosphere… It was like the models came out from ultra luxury club, still have a scent of Yves Saint Laurent Opium perfume.
That was a really amazing ending of New York fashion week. All the collections that I wrote about were so unique and creative- however I should say mostly everything was very classical (the only collections that I didn’t like was Michael Kors. Donna Karan, Calvin Klein, Oscar de la Renta in collab with John Galianno that was too heavy and artificial as for the master of femine master and other designers like Ralph Lauren were also poor for me). And now, readers we are going to… Milan!
Design & Culture by Ed 