The Cabinet of Couture

20130705-111330 PM.jpg

“A cabinet of curiosities was an encyclopedic collection in Renaissance Europe of types of objects whose categorial boundaries were yet to be defined. They were also known by various names such as Cabinet of Wonder, and in German Kunstkammer (“art-room”) or Wunderkammer (“wonder-room”). Modern terminology would categorize the objects included as belonging to natural history (sometimes faked), geology, ethnography, archaeology, religious or historical relics, works of art (including cabinet paintings) and antiquities. “The Kunstkammer was regarded as a microcosm or theater of the world, and a memory theater. The Kunstkammer conveyed symbolically the patron’s control of the world through its indoor, microscopic reproduction.”[1] Of Charles I of England’s collection, Peter Thomas has succinctly stated, “The Kunstkabinett itself was a form of propaganda”.[2] Besides the most famous and best documented cabinets of rulers and aristocrats, members of the merchant class and early practitioners of science in Europe also formed collections that were precursors to museums.” Wikipedia about Cabinet of Curiosities…

20130705-111417 PM.jpg

20130705-111432 PM.jpg

20130705-111438 PM.jpg

20130705-111449 PM.jpg

20130705-111456 PM.jpg

20130705-111501 PM.jpg

20130705-111507 PM.jpg

20130705-111521 PM.jpg

20130705-111529 PM.jpg

20130705-111535 PM.jpg

20130705-111543 PM.jpg

20130705-111551 PM.jpg

20130705-111731 PM.jpg

20130705-111737 PM.jpg

20130705-111743 PM.jpg
The Valentino Couture show was a poesy of fashion and art. No more to write, but just to ply your eyes with beauty by Pierpaolo Picciolini and Maria Grazia Chiuri!

The New Yorkers

Slide1-kopia 6The Resort 2014 is already arriving everyday with tones of new collcetions, and it’s the time when the the hottest designers of New York already went for a nap, and the Europeans have just woke up before the Resort/Haute Couture Fashion Weeks. So here it is- a short review of Resort’14 in New York, that covers Proenza Schouler, Altuzarra, Balenciaga (it’s Parisian, but for me, because of Wang as head, it’s New York), Derek Lam and Jason Wu. So lets begin with… The PS brothers, Proenza Schouler!Slide2Well, Proenza Schouler is getting every season more mature and colourless, as you can see. Creme, white and grey colours, comfortable forms and warm prints. And it looks very similar to the Pre-Fall collection. There is no excitment, because clearly Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez stand for practicality, and their fantastic unique ideas are on the other side. Sad, because that was really different from others. Now it’s a bit Ralph Lauren- boring, classical.Slide3From some time I really love what Joseph Altuzarra is doing recently- first he did a amazing AW13 collection, then took Stella Tennant as a muse… The resort is how he said, sensitive and very femine, but not as sexy as his past ones. We’ve got some wild west pants here and a bit cowboy shirts mixed with modern elegance. Beautiful fur scarves, white dresses, lace and gold, do really match Altuzarra style! Slide4No, I’m not crazy. Balenciaga officially IS Parisian, but since Alexander Wang is the creative director, it lost all Parisian Chick. The collection began from Wang’s visit at Cristobal Balenciaga Museum. Yes. Then, Alex did nothing more, but copied the archives and made them black and white. When Ghesquiere designed Balenciaga, it was inspired by archives, but it was futuristic, edgy, modern. Now, with Mr. Wang it looks only into past, and just makes a first look that it’s SO FRESH bacause of the colour palette. I thought it won’t be so bad. Now even Hedi Slimane at Saint Laurent is much more better for me.Slide5Derel Lam maybe is not a newcomer, but for sure a shooting star of NYC Fashion. This resort was minimalistic, eometrical and full of inovative fabrics. The dresses are at the time perfect for a shopping at Bergdof’s Goodman, for a run in Central Park and as well for a dinner in Nobu Tribeca. Is it a New York Celine? For now I see big future for Derek!Slide6Jason Wu suprised me this Resort season. I usuall didn’t really like Jason Wu’s collection because they were always so formal. But, this time I am pleased! Lots of new materials, fantastic paradise prints, jeans jacketa and midi skirts, plastic trench coats, pink bra’s, transparent lace dresses… There is really a lot of telling. For sure Michelle Obama won’t wear any of these, but it looks more affordable than ever! Jason Wu, big bravo’s for the best (exequies with Marc Jacobs galmorous collection I wrote few days ago)!10-crosby-derek-lam-resort-2014-22

Tilda Swinton in Cannes

130526095503_169478622While all the stars like Anne Hathaway or Laetisia Casta wear their Dior’s and Valentino’s Couture gowns, Tilda Swinton never go on the easier path. I mean, she looks easier (not so tired like Uma Thurman in this silver Versace dress), but much more stylish. Tilda breaks all stereotypes of a costume at a big Gala. We will not see her in Gucci nor Chanel, but in… Haider Ackerman! Just like this time! Swinton, that look a bit like David Bowie, reminds me of stylish rock and roll in this sequined golden jumsuit by Paris based designer. She is my definite number one this year at Cannes Festival!tilda_swinton_en_haider_ackermann_cannes_2013_only_lovers_left_8215_north_545xkanni12kanni13

Unusual. Maison Martin Margiela AW13

20130301-104731 PM.jpg
Maison Martin Margiela as always went to a fashion lab and made a really, really good collection. What was the thing that was most buzzed about? Of course these totally not normal hand cuffs, that were over big and painted and the a special for all girls with long hair- a hair pocket on the back of nearly all jackets and tops! The trousers had some cool colour lines on the sides giving it a a bit more sophisticated look!20130301-105026 PM.jpg20130301-105039 PM.jpg

20130301-105059 PM.jpg

20130301-105111 PM.jpg

20130301-105241 PM.jpg
The last look is as always most special at Margiela- totally gold dress from a fabric that reminds me of a kind of heavy harpet a velvet or window cloth… However it looked stunning! There was also a version of a patchwork sweater. MMM never disapoints. And if it does (rarely) it’s always risktaking and experimental!

20130301-105535 PM.jpg

20130301-105542 PM.jpg