The New Revolutionaries

August 22, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Fashion is continuous in communicating on what’s happening in the world. Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren shaped the 70s punk scene in Great Britain, shaking up the aristocratic nation; Marc Jacobs took grunge into the world of high fashion at Perry Ellis in 1993. There was Raf Simons with studded, skinny pants for boys, and Hedi Slimane at Saint Laurent years later, reviving Yves’ (in)famous scandale spirit. All of those designers wanted to show rebellion, and made history. This season, the mood of rebellion was present, too, but introduced in a different way. If you want to look defiant, leave your mud-splattered boots behind.

Marc Jacobs and Lucie de la Falaise, Perry Ellis era

Take Rei Kawabuko and her autumn-winter 2016 collection at Comme des Garçons – it was an ode to the 18th century, but not in the way you might have expected. The silhouettes were voluminous, while the textures clashed with contrasts. Instead of embroideries and embellishments, opulence played a different role. “The 18th century was a time of change and revolution,” Rei said. “This is how I imagine punks would look, if they had lived in this century.” Think about French aristocracy, and just remind yourself some Marie Antoinette’s pouf hair-style or Louis XIV’s obsession with heels. Ball-dresses, splendour of colours – this is how the Incroyables originated, putting a barrier between them, and others. Their looks shouted “I’m in the elite – you’re NOT”. In fact that was a kind of punk gesture, if you look at that from another perspective. Paradoxically, Kawakubo wasn’t mistaken – punks, different punks, already existed before Dame Vivienne. Living in their saccharine wardrobes and eating cupcakes while the poor starved was to an extend… radical.

Comme des Garcons AW16

Good times changed for aristocracy, and the French revolution proves that. John Galliano‘s spring-summer 1993 collection was a modern-day interpretation, of how a Merveilleuse (female equivalent for Incroyable) could have looked before execution. Of course with grace! A sheer dress which looked nearly like a piece of underwear; her hair of fleek. Decapitation had to be chic, and Galliano’s spectacular collection filled with tattered frock coats, dilapidated chiffon, and extravagantly puff-sleeved gowns was a controversial success.

All of the above: John Galliano SS93

But coming back to 2016. Marc Jacobs‘ latest outing was all about full skirts and big dresses in polished leather. Platforms were there. Those ladies were like the bad queens and bad princesses from a fantasy, while their outfits were loud nods to monarchy looks. For Maison Margiela, Galliano devoted his haute couture collection once again to the Incroyables, presenting coats with exaggerated tails. But this time, the one-of-a-kind pieces were mixed with high-tech textiles and hand-made chantilly lace. John explained his artisanal season as a reflection of today’s world troubles. “I didn’t want to repeat what I did as a kid,” said Galliano. “But it has the rebellious attitude of youth.” Lastly, Dries Van Noten was inspired with Marchesa Casati’s avant-garde aura. She was, you’ve guessed well, an unconventional aristocrat, with her smokey eyes, layers of pearl necklaces and exotic furs. She looked different that all the other fancy dames from those times – and that’s why Dries felt appeal to her. An embodiment of punk? Yes.

Marc Jacobs AW16

Dries Van Noten AW16

Above: Maison Margiela Haute Couture AW16

Farewell, Hedi!

April 2, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

After months of speculations, Kering has confirmed – Hedi Slimane is leaving Saint Laurent. Did Hedi realise that there is not enough place for him and Demna Gvasalia, the other designer who makes cheap-looking clothes with four digit price-tags? Let’s be clear – Slimane, during his three-and-a-half year tenure was the master of hypocrisy. Do you remember the autumn-winter 2013, when he presented mohair cardigans, studded boots and skimpy, leather dresses? Some said it was a modern-day nod to Yves Saint Laurent’s controversial Le Scandale collection. But some were more realistic, and not that optimistic – these clothes looked like grunge, but a la River Island circa 2010 rather than Kurt Cobain. Even though in the same year Courtney Love became the face of Saint Laurent. If talking of another odd things that happened during Slimane’s “era” – the tiaras from SS16. One costs, yes, 995 euros here. And it gets even more ironic, when you note that this is a prom-like, brass tiara embellished with rhinestone. Not with gems, silver or, huh, diamonds. I doubt it’s even Swarovski.

However, Hedi Slimane can be at least praised for the speed and desperation with which he had totally revamped the house. The interiors of the flagship stores, which used to be so boring with Stefano Pilati in charge, got the marble upgrade, while the advertisement campaigns – starring Kim Gordon, Joni Mittchel and lately, Jane Birkin – were always photographed by him, and had a cool, LA-rooted rock’n’roll spark. Also, it’s reported that the revenue of the brand increased in all categories, from accessories to clothes. People are buying Saint Laurent, so there is surely an undefined reason for Slimane’s success. But then, why did he leave? And will Anthony Vaccarello, whose aesthetic isn’t far from Hedi’s, get the point? Time will tell. But for now, let’s look back at the journey that Slimane took us to.

Lady Grunge. No21 AW16

February 26, 2016August 5, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Milan Fashion Week has never been in such a good form, and it’s all because of the designers, who revive the major houses, or expand the smaller, eponymous ones. Alessandro Dell AcQua, the man behind N21, is an example of the latter, proving to be one of the most successful in his field – the first, marble-rich Milan flagship store has been opened at the beginning of the year, his signature bow-tie mules are called the “total best-sellers” by most of the retailers, while N21’s creative direction, which is often focused on feminine chic, becomes much more refined and aesthetically conscious.

Unexpectedly, the autumn-winter collection presented the defiant side of Alessandro’s style. Grunge already seems to be the topic on everybody’s lips this season, and his polished, lady-like sense reinterpreted the slightly burnt-out, Saint Laurent sucked attitude. Dell AcQua has visibly put extra effort on the texture play, mixing satin slip-dresses with sweaters in his outfits; the floral-print silk dresses styled with thick-knits reminded me of Marc Jacobs’ Perry Ellis grunge era, but in an Italian world of leoard-motived fur coats and rhinestones. It’s great to see tights play an important role in woman’s wardrobe, but rather as a stylish detail than an autumn necessity – the ones which walked the runway at N21 had floral embroideries, and the are too good to be true. It’s the next, triumphant season for Alessandro, and I sincerely hope he will continue to redefine feminine sensuality in his off-duty, edgy way.

Sultry Punk. Alexander Wang AW16

February 14, 2016February 14, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Sultry, defiant punk girls walked down the aisles of St. Barts Church in the heart of New York – it’s visible from the first sight that Alexander Wang pushed hard to provoke. But did he achieve his aim? Not really, even though the view of the Byzantine cupola was breath-taking. But lets not lie – in the Instagram age, it’s hard to shock with both, the clothes, and the venue. And if talking of the clothes, it’s visible that Wang again feels his NYC freedom he had before his three-year Balenciaga tenure – the looks ooze with “I don’t give a f***” attitude from every angle. Mohair cardigans and leg-giving mini-skirts smell with teen spirit, but not with Kurt Cobain – it’s more about dressing up as a “punk” girl of Sky Ferreira origins and putting on your Supreme beanie (I nearly thought the designer collaborated with Supreme on these “Strict”, “Tender” and “Girls” slogans). But what really described the Wang-gang girl were the cannabis-motif embroideries on patent white dresses. This felt both kinda youthful and Tumblr. However, I doubt a lot of 17’s and 18’s can afford this “high fashion” stuff.

Did it On Em. Alexander Wang SS16

September 13, 2015September 13, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

You could suspect, that after leaving the French house of Balenciaga, Alexander Wang might have changed his style. Well folks, Wang is the same Wang from 2012 – the year before he arrived at Balenciaga. Same grunge affairs. The “girl from Bronx” attitude. Hoodies thrown over leather skirts, track-suits with studded heels (see this nightmare above), slouchy pajama shirts. This highly S&M black suede dress with Harley Davidson-driver inspired fringes is too much for me. Whateva dey say, Nicki Minaj approves these maxi slip dresses – even though she has never intended to be a fashion icon (but it was her who stole the spotlight in the front row). This collection was purely about the designer’s signature aesthetic and feels like a grand recap of Wang’s all-time best-sellers. Maybe because of the fact that it is the 10th anniversary of the brand? Well. I admit I prefer this Alexander Wang rather than the one that tried to be sleek and neat in Paris. However, I need to confess once again, that I am not a slave to Alexander Wang’s fashion.