Perry Ellis Era

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The 90’s. Aah. The free spirit. And grunge. These are the keywords that really make me think about this amazing era of creativity, defiance and a kind of “I don’t give a F word” attitude. Perry Ellis from 1994 is the perfect example. It was the collection that got Marc Jacobs fired from this American fashion house, which is currently slowly dying and becoming a forgotten brand. It was the show, idea, that made his career. With Kurt Cobain and Courtney Love in the newspapers and their music dominating both the radio and MTV, a 29-year-old Jacobs sent flannel shirts, printed granny dresses, Dr. Martens and knitted beanies down the runway. “Grunge is ghastly,” Suzy Menkes declared later in her fashion show report, and Jacobs indeed lost his job, but this was one show that the critics and the Perry Ellis company definitely got wrong. In other words, to those who think Hedi Slimane at Saint Laurent is innovative – as you, he is not.

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Baby Naomi.

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Baby Kristen.

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Baby Kate.

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London in Brazil. Marques Almeida Resort’16

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After winning the LVMH Prize, Marques Almeida quickly updated their brand schedule, by introducing a new season to it – Resort. And for their first Resort, Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida went to Brazil with their muse, Sofia, to photograph and present it. The effects? A collection of wearable clothes, which have a very specific MA signature. Special denim tops with ruffles; grungy silhouettes; bold colours. And lovely dresses which were styled in unusually elegant way. Loose-weave light knits were slashed and knotted just like their tattered  T-shirts, which came reinvented here as beachwear. Digital jungle-print silks and florals were a clash of femininity and the typical rawness Marques Almeida has in its codes. It is worth to mention, that going to Brazil was worth it – the clothes looked really laid-back and the lookbook will definitely catch your eye.

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Men’s: Skinny. Saint Laurent AW14

Slide1-kopia 3Who could end men’s fashion month in such unique style? Only Hedi Slimane, that leads Saint Laurent to total grunge destruction. The AW14 collection is very… hard. Some pieces are very cool, and some more affordable for a rockstar! Take the green sequin suit; or the leopard printed bomber jacket. Or even these creepers ‘on fire. Hedi knows what he wants and moves into his direction- the rock’n’roll era, that inspires him so much. If my size would be XS and I would have such skinny legs as the models here, then I would definitely love everything. But while I am certainly not, then I don’t really feel the mood of the collection. However, from the crowd of elegant suites and coats, Slimane really catches my eye from the whole fashion week from Paris… See you for Haute Couture SS14!

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Indie. Junya Watanabe SS14

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The new Parisian fav designer that is known for a cool way of mixing sportswear with something “different” is definitely Junya Watanabe. Junya got really inspired with Indie rock and the tribal Americans, changing the typical head decoration of feathers into something more sophisticated… Maybe the new Parisian chic? There was also a lot of denim like last season and the grunge attitude- lots of holes, spiked boots and crazy hairstyles. In other words it was a great ethnical journey with Japanese designer in Paris!

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