Saying that Hedi Slimane is lazy, as wrote Cathy Horyn, is a simple bah. A guy who redesigns everything from the logo to the showroom furnitures in his boutiques of Saint Laurent, doesn’t seem to be lazy at all. Hedi Slimane did a huge revolution at Saint Laurent and in fashion world, that seemed to be very peaceful comparing AW13 with the grunge/punk/Roc &Roll collection. And in reality, Slimane didn’t do this for more controversy- no, it’s all simply his aesthetics. When the designer of SL is not at work, he isn’t kissing Pinault’s ass for money but hangs out with friends/musicians in LA! So there is nothing that is done for more money. Well it is, but it’s not enforcing. People will still buy this kind of Yves Saint Laurent. So, Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane wins the second place in AW13 ranking of best collections!
Grunge
Épater Le Bourgeois
This is the evidence of Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane tradition legacy to Yves style. Even if the AW13 was all about LA grunge chic, there was a huge, archival source- the pink, fluffy fur worn with tights covered of stones, and leather boots. In reality, Yves also loved and many times showed this kind of fur (even in green colour!) in his collections. And it looks as super stylish, as the one from the show! Oh, every day looking deeper and deepernin Yves archives, I feel love to Hedi Slimane working for this house! He is a real fashion revolutionist, breaking rules and kicking everybody’s face!
Brit in Milan. No21 AW13
No.21 is new great fashion star of Milan that is known for it’s super cool ready to wear collections. This season, Dell Agua, the designer, made the real Brit in Milan look! Great tailored jackets in brown colours, lots of sequins, leather and beautiful camel/pink colours were seen. The cloths had also a sophisticated but grunge look that was, I would say, easy to go!
There was a lot of fur in the collection and… Beautiful coats! These had straight clean lines, amd looked minimalistic. The British inspired element was for sure the romantic flowers print. It was divided thanks to a black leather belt.
Neon City. Rodarte AW13
Rodarte made me impressed till the end of the day. It was so… Different from others! Where else will you find a ballerina that went first to hard party night club, went back in a biker jacket with green hair, then on the second day had a fashion hangover and had to go on a elegant party but unfortunately a bucket of paint fell on her? Yeah you are on right address. Rodarte really mixed up everything but in a super cool way! 
When the embroidered with flowers dresses with colourful spirals came out, and Cara Delevigne had a black and white dress kimono on her I was so suprised! And the more ready to wear- because most of dresses I would fairly call haute couture- clothes were the jeweled sweaters in multi colours, grunge jackets, smoking pants and this beige garniture with small circones on- the model with green hair wore it!
Just loved also the setting- colourful neons and cold concrete. Just as I like. Minimalism is ruling!
Design & Culture by Ed 