It was Gucci and the ancient necropolis of Alyscamps, a stone throw from the French city of Arles, that followed the Louis Vuitton cruise show in the Cote d’Azur. The lightness and sun-drenched mood of French Riviera got erased by a massive dose of historical weight and a sense of mysticism that Alessandro Michele adores to implement into his clothes, and the Italian brand. It’s not a surprise that the collection was heavy in details and focused on a beautiful chaos, typical for the escapist universe of the creative director. The line-up was like a moving closet for women and men, or rather for anyone who feels free to wear the clothes. That’s Alessandro’s way of pushing Gucci into no-gender-boundaries label. So there it all was on that, literally, ‘on fire’ runway: a gown with a skeleton thorax embroidered on the bodice (disturbingly magnificent), bridal dresses embellished with Christian crosses, leggings with memento mori written all over, richly embroidered toga dresses, punk-ish boots, opulent robes, jaw-dropping faux fur coats and lots of flowers (that replaced real accessories). I no longer look at Michele’s collection in terms of clothes only. That just doesn’t make sense. His creations are like a theatre, where everything matters: the styling, the models, the setting, the music.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Maria Carla Boscono by Juergen Teller.
I very rarely write about such mainstream events as the MET Gala, but this year was awkwardly… good. A heaven’s gift, even. Noting this year’s Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination theme, the guests had to give a thought to their appearance. Actually, it could have gone all wrong. But, surprisingly, some of the looks will become somewhat iconic! And that’s something to cherish. It’s truly pleasing to know that there are actors, musicians and celebrities that want to break the norms and dare to stand out on the red carpet – especially at MET, where boredom should leave right away.
I know I might look really late with this fellow ranking of the best looks, comparing to all the others in the industry (well, my final exams are in progress, so please do excuse me!). But still, posting this feels like a right thing to do.
How I love Frances McDormand in this Valentino haute couture ensemble. She looks so non-chalant, yet chilled out. And she smoked a cigarette, while wearing that magnificent headwear. Thanks God for Pierpaolo Piccioli, who really nailed it with that collection, and thanks God for Frances, a woman to adore and admire.
Well, Rihanna in John Galliano‘s major Maison Margiela pope fashion. No explanation needed I guess.
Anthony Vaccarello‘s Saint Laurent gang of dark angels that featured Zoë Kravitz, Charlotte Gainsbourg, Anja Rubik, Kate Moss, Mica Arganaraz and Charlotte Casiraghi. Hell yes.
Solange in Iris Van Herpen is somewhere between an alien dominatrix and a Goddess. Can be two at a time, why not.
Possibly, Greta Gerwig wanted to look elegantly invisible. Well, that dramatic The Row dress was the MET Gala’s most serene fashion moment, but in the best possible way. A nun goes to the ball! Love.
Susie Cave‘s velvet Gucci gown is pure romance, as if taken straight from a romantic era ballad.
I’m picky, I know. But those were my ultimate favourites. Amen.