COVID-19 made fashion rethink many matters, from fashion week schedules to overproduction, but most of all, it accelarated the reflection on how to show a collection to wide audience, through the digital media, in the most appealing ways. Most of brands come up with a video or film. But the latest example takes notes from Netflix. Gucci‘s Alessandro Michele hired the one and only Gus Van Sant to make seven-episode miniseries that were shown one by one, for the entire week. At moments, the experience was bumpy. The poll I’ve made on Instagram mid-week suggested that 75% no longer paid attention to the digital Gucci event. While the visuals of Ouverture Of Something That Never Ended were striking, Silvia Calderoni’s acting was phenomenal and Gucci celebs appearances were amusingly witty (Harry Styles made a cameo wearing a pink tee tucked into denim shorts, and pronounced his improvised modern-day art manifesto: “when it comes to making art it’s about finding the thing you’ve always wanted to see that has never been made. It’s always an uncomfortable moment, I think, when you find the thing. You don’t know if you love it or hate it because you don’t really know what it is yet. But I think that’s the most exciting place to work in“; Florence Welch glided through a Gucci-fied vintage store and slipped handwritten notes into the pockets of jeans or the purse of a passerby; Billie Eilish performed her new song and danced with her pet robot dogs in what looked like the suburbs of L.A.), the focus on the clothes was hard to comprehend. Fashion films are pretty much always product-driven and lack substance, and here it was quite the opposite. There was plenty of substance, but I felt there was not enough of the collection itself. Maybe, as some editors suggested, the episodes could be shoppable? It would be great to find that golden balance. The miniseries streamed on Instagram and on a dedicated site dubbed GucciFest, where the brand also supported videos made by 15 emerging designers from around the world – which was a lovely gesture. Once you finally look at the look-book to see the actual spring-summer 2021 (and pre-fall 2021) clothes, you will be surprised (or not so much) that Michele decided to utterly focus on the core of his Gucci. The 90 looks saw some most distinct signatures, as well as Alessandro’s archives (especially pieces from his first Gucci collections). There was pretty much nothing new, and the collection was free of bizarre over-the-topness that made the label feel just too much for me in the pre-pandemic times. So, the brand’s customer will be pleased with all the vintage-y, wearable styles that are just the right amount of quirk, while the rest of the audience might use the line-up as an inspiration-filled portfolio. It seems to say: “shop your closet, no need to buy new stuff“.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
This year, I’ve decided to create dream gift guides that might make it easier for you to go (and filter) through the festive season. Get ready for a selection of beautiful items that will spark joy and last for years. The ones that will certainly please one’s senses and deliver heavenly feelings. Treat your loved ones and yourself! Here’s the curated edit of the most covetable delights, for him, which are all about being feeling bold and chic.
Quilt and Patch. For a few season now, Emily Adams Bode’ eponymous, New York-based label storms menswear, whether it’s Harry Styles wearing Bode corduroy pants or Ezra Miller wearing a full look on the red carpet. One of the brand’s signature, quilted jackets is high up on my wishlist for Santa.
Groovy and Cozy. Yes, your stay-at-home uniform can be as good as a eee-Lite song.
Big & Chunky Knit. Dries Van Noten certainly knows how to make you drool over a knit.
Modern Dandy. Break conventions and play with the notions of elegance. Elevated classics that will never get boring.
Loewe x Ken Price. Just in time for Christmas, Loewe has dropped a new art capsule. Ken Price (1935 – 2012) was a Californian artist, born and raised in Los Angeles, whose esoteric style defied categorization. Calling on eclectic influences from Mexican folk art to erotica and surf culture, his output included vibrant landscapes that have become the focus of the capsule collection – a selection of limited edition ready-to-wear, iconic bags and accessories.
Timeless Neutrals. Different shades of brown and beige… sometimes, you just have never enough of them.
Hed Mayner single-breasted blazer, Hed Mayner wool trousers, Ann Demeulemeester feather pendant necklace, Bottega Veneta tortoiseshell oval sunglasses, Lemaire croissant leather crossbody bag & Dries Van Noten pony hair derbies
Think Green, Wear Green. Green is often thought to represent tranquility, good luck and health. This is how we all want to enter 2021…
Nerdy Non-Chalance. Tis the season of a geeky sweaters! Why not make the outfit even more so-bad-it’s-good with some statement accessories?
The Great Outdoors. Whether its The Crown‘s British moores (obsessed) or stylish grocery shopping in your neighbourhood, gorgeous outerwear won’t dissapoint anyone.
Arty. Christo, the Bulgarian-born artist became internationally renowned for his monumental art projects that would redefine public spaces, landmarks and natural landscapes, often by augmenting or concealing their natural appearance with miles of fabric. He passed away this year, and to celebrate his ouvre, Taschen decided to update its monograph book on his and Jeanne-Claude’s artistic practice.
Los Angeles Cool. There are two labels coming from Los Angeles that I’m constantly obsessed with – Greg Chait’s The Elder Statesman and Eli Russell Linnetz’s ERL. While the first is a tie-dyed cashmere heaven, the second envisions a unisex world that reflects the heart and soul of LA’s youth. Both of them exude an air of nostalgia, with inspiration stemming from ‘90s films, Venice Beach skaters, and the Santa Monica aura. Oh, and both brands make genius clothes and accessories which will definitely work as a forever-lasting gifts!
Parisian Chic. I wrote about Husbands Paris not a while ago. Everything is a dream, really, from their signature knitted ties to the most delightful trench coats. You’ll find Husbands between the orbits of tailoring and fashion, plucking the craftsmanship from the former and stories from the latter to fill an otherwise uninhabited space of the industry with culture and style. Want!
Raf Knows What A Guy Needs. Really, if you’re not sure what he wants… buy him Raf Simons.
More festive gift guides are coming soon! Here’s one you might have missed – for her!
All collages by Edward Kanarecki.