Gucci is going through a financial annus horribilis, but its creative studio is working hard. Yesterday’s resort 2026 outing in Florence – first previewed at the brand’s Palazzo Settimanni archive, then presented outdoors on Piazza Santo Spirito – was a deep departure from Sabato De Sarno’s era of blandness, and a subtle introdution to Demna’s rapidly-approaching era (his debut will hit Milan in September). Many think that the latter was already present in the execution of this collection, at least in accepting the final looks – but I honestly doubt it. That would be a false-start I truly can’t imagine Demna would allow himself. Expect the most unexpected once he really enters the office.

This new Gucci collection is a creation of a smart design team that knows Gucci codes (and archives) through and through. With Suzanne Koller’s styling help, the line-up had chic charisma: think big, faux-fur-collared coats worn over tight pencil-skirts and the general 1980s vibe, the stylist’s signature touch. She did go a little too far with the haphazard way of carrying bags at the very tip of the strap – make it make sense, please. The collection can be read like a mix of new and old of the Gucci semiotics: Tom Ford’s whiff of sexy and Alessandro Michele’s knack for vintage-y eclecticism (as a result, the eveningwear looked like the current Valentino offering).

This collection won’t end up in a fashion history book, that’s for sure, but at least it resuscitated Gucci as a brand that has an identity. Or identities one can play around with. Also, it makes you want to browse vintage Gucci online and create a look that has that Florentine sciura glam…

ED’s SELECTION:

Gucci Gg Emblem Medium Leather-trimmed Printed Coated-canvas Shoulder Bag

Gucci Printed Cotton-twill Midi Skirt

Gucci Jordaan Horsebit-embellished Leather Knee Boots

Gucci Caban Wool And Llama-blend Coat

Gucci Blondie Leather Shoulder Bag

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Don’t forget to follow Design & Culture by Ed on Instagram!

Hey, did you know about my newsletter – Ed’s Dispatch? Click here to subscribe!