Gucci‘s autumn-winter 2025 collection begs a question: do big brands need creative directors? Look at Loro Piana – it’s lead by a largely anonymous design studio, and it’s selling like hot buns. Their clients really don’t care about who’s designing what: it’s the quality that matters – and the overall image of the brand. After Sabato De Sarno’s departure from Gucci – and his very plain, very mild tenure – the brand is facing identity crisis. Should it go maximalist à la Alessandro Michele? Should it revert back to Tom Ford’s minimalist sensuality? Should it tap Hedi Slimane or an under-the-radar-name? At the moment, there’s no right answer. Even though the line-up that opened Milan Fashion Week wasn’t bad (it was way better than anything De Sarno presented), it left you with an impression of incompleteness. If not for Suzanne Koller’s masterful styling, the trendy-looking color palette, a bunch of faux-fur coats and silk slip dresses had little to say.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Don’t forget to follow Design & Culture by Ed on Instagram!

Hey, did you know about my newsletter – Ed’s Dispatch? Click here to subscribe!