Apparent Ease. Alaïa SS25

Alaïa was another show in New York that left me somewhat hungry for more. Pieter Mulier‘s took the Parisian maison to Guggenheim, as a contemporary (and very high-gloss) hommage to Azzedine Alaïa’s 1982 show at the Palladium nightclub. The spring-summer 2025 collection referenced a couple of the master’s knock-out designs: think 2001 couture asymmetric draped number hanging on one strap or the cut-out bustiers that became the brand’s signature (Mulier was evidently inspired by the forms of Frank Lloyd Wright-designed building). The Belgian creative director also invited some ideas that were born in New York: bandeaus and haute “sweatpants” were riffs on Halston’s 1970s jerseys, sculpted puffer jackets were obviously inspired by Charles James, one of Alaïa’s favorite designers. There was lightness and apparent ease about this collection that was absolutely luxe in its execution. And it was an experiment for Mulier, who has created a sort of well-tested comfort-zone in Paris when it comes to his sublime shows there. I just wish he dared to push it a bit more than just referencing familiar and pretty well-known codes of both Alaïa and New York fashion.

Here are some Alaïa goodies you just don’t want to miss.

ED’s SELECTION:

“Peter Lindbergh. Azzedine Alaïa” book


Alaïa Balloon-Leg Pleated Trousers


Alaïa Dome 32 Top-Handle Bag in Leather


Alaïa Leopard Jacquard Boxy Bodysuit


Alaïa Goldtone Layered Leaf Necklace



Alaïa Perforated Leather Ballerina Flats

 

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Simple. Proenza Schouler SS14

Slide1-kopiaFor me, the Guggenheim Museum in New York is a place for inspiration hunting. Not only art there makes your imagination work, but also the architecture of this building- the spiral, white interior of Guggenheim is one of the most beautiful thing in NYC. And, I don’t know why, but it feels to me that the Proenza Schouler designer duo had their beautiful collection influenced with this magnificient place! The show venue of the collection of PS SS14 collection was happening in a typical NY loft. It started with delicate leather coats, then changed into some very Proenza prints and ended up with metallic skirts and tops. I should say I really like the mature version of Proenza Schouler- the 10 year old label changes dramatically from a toxic-coloured-and-neon-printed-amazon-frog-girl into a beautiful, New York lady that adors to walk every morning to Central Park and fancies a dance in one of the New York’s hottest lobster bars… In other words, the clothes, shoes (that are pretty funny) and bags from that Summer collection at Proenza Schouler are simply beautiful! This is the New New York Look!Slide2 Slide3 Slide4 Slide5 Slide6