Timothée Chalamet attended Haider Ackermann‘s autumn-winter 2020, but that of course wasn’t the sole highlight of the entire event. Although there was no real explanation regarding the line-up (“I don’t like to define,” said the designer), the keys to unlocking the thought behind the collection appeared to reside in the track list upon the cotton quilt coat in one of the men’s looks. Under Ackermann’s signature and the headline “Private Dancer” was a list of songs, including Leonard Cohen’s “I’m Your Man,” David Bowie’s “Absolute Beginners,” Yoko Ono’s “I Want My Love to Rest Tonight,” Underworld’s “Born Slippy,” Eminem’s “Lose Yourself,” and Dolly Parton’s “Jolene”. “These are all my favorite songs,” Haider told the press. “It was just an ode to everything I love.” The collection was also a mix that unfolded in groups of looks for both women (sometimes under space-age beehive hats that elevated the silhouettes even more) and men. From wearing shades of ecru to rich velvets to black, the models walked in packs. What united them was the Ackermann eye for the romantic, the poetic and the sensual. At the back of jackets, vents bled into extra folds of material that caressed the silhouette. Long and lean overcoats were contoured with collars and buttons in a series of masterfully produced arrangements. This show was a painstakingly tailored mixtape of all of Ackermann’s wearable passions and signatures. Simply speaking: beautiful.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Believe it or not – I can’t! – but we’re heading towards a new millenium. So, how do you choose the most important collections, designers and labels of the decade? The ones that made an actual impact in the 2010s? Well, it’s not an easy task. It all began in September 2009 with New York’s spring-summer 2010 shows and ended when the autumn-winter 2019 haute couture shows wrapped in Paris. Few thousands of shows, by the way. There will be 19 posts (that’s really the only possible minimum!) reminding about the best – and if not the best, then strongly influencing – moments in fashion.
Haider Ackermann‘s AW14 perfection.
Of course, Haider Ackermann has many things to look back at this decade: his Berluti stint, all the custom looks he created for Tilda Swinton and Timothee Chalamet for their red carpet appearances, every single menswear and womenswear collection he presented… but there’s one line-up I will never forget. The autumn-winter 2014 collection. That time, Ackermann utterly seduced with his sensual silhouette, garbed in contrasting cuts and volumes. Some of the garments were built for street (biker jackets, mannish jackets, comfy cardigans, skinny cropped jeans), others were decidedly more refined (floor-sweeping duster coats, oversized trousers, draped jersey dresses, and plunging tops, all sent out in autumn-ish, masculine fabrics – tweeds, plaids, houndstooth, flannel, fur and felt galore). A poised, poetically dark allure.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.