Haider Ackermann
Men’s / Seducing. Berluti AW18
Let’s start from a very abstract concept. If Phoebe Philo decided on menswear (something Hedi Slimane has done a few days ago – read the news, if you still haven’t…) during her tenure at Céline, she would have chosen Haider Ackermann to do it – that’s for sure, looking at his latest offering for Berluti. It’s heavenly. It’s precisely what seduces me in menswear. Those soft cuts, colours. Not speaking of the jaw-dropping materials used. Just take a glance at the butter-y leather cognac coat or the pastel blue (!) pants. Or that luxe shearling. I really don’t need anything else in life. The ‘borrowed from men’ women’s line also has lots to love about it – from Stella Tennant walking down the pale pink runway to that one grey suit that is pure perfection. This might be my ultimate favourite of the men’s autumn-winter 2018 season.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Men’s / Voyager. Haider Ackermann AW18
My love for Haider Ackermann is indescribable, really. His aesthetic, his style, his sensibility for colours and textures. The autumn-winter 2018 collection rotated somewhere around Moroccan souks and Japanese bath houses, at least this is how I’ve perceived it. Oriental, but not direct. Whether Ackermann’s man is a nearly mythical lifetime voyager or a guy from Paris wearing his velvet varsity jacket and high-waisted satin trackpants on the daily basis, I have the same feeling every season after seeing the designer’s show: I want to be, or at least look, like this man. Obsessed.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Design & Culture by Ed 