Men’s / Low-Key Luxe. Berluti SS18

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‘Understated luxury’ is quite the term to describe Haider Ackermann‘s fashion at Berluti. It’s the designer’s second season at LVMH’s menswear-only house, and although it seems that his bad-boy aesthetic might not fittingly root in at Berluti, Ackermann finds the right balance. Haider’s low-key chic for very rich men (only they can afford the brand, in fact) oozes in those hand-crafted leather jackets, incredibly tailored coats and deluxe sweatpants. Even though Berluti isn’t planning to open a womenswear line, models (from icons Stella Tennant and Liya Kebede to runway regulars Mica Arganaraz and Kiki De Willems) appeared in masculine silhouettes. “Well, it’s always amusing to have women around. And they all borrow men’s clothes. It’s a healthy thing, a sexy thing,” Ackermann concluded post-show.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Men’s / Soigné. Haider Ackermann SS18

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Haider Ackermann cuts a suit like no other. The lilac one (pictured above) worn by runway favourite Paul Hameline is defining the term soigné in menswear. It’s simple in its form, but decadent, noting that the model wears it on his bare body. But this wasn’t the only highlight coming from Ackermann’s spring-summer 2018. Pin-stripe goes laid back with the designer’s to-die-for blazers and pantalons, while the creamy tank-top styled with nonchalantly tied scarf feels eternally chic. The women’s part (understood as resort 2018 segment) is as desirable as the men’s summer, with lots of seductive flesh exposing and cropping. Haider, this one’s so good!

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.