It’s rare to see a designer, who throughout time is true to his or her style, and at the same time is keen on evolving. Haider Ackermann is the perfect example of such designer. Since designing for Berluti, a solely menswear luxury brand, its visible how Ackermann’s tailoring skills have improved and grown up. But still, his signature sensibility is as alive as a decade ago. The spring-summer 2018 isn’t only about breathtaking tailoring (although if every designer had at least one impressive suit in their collection, precisely in a deep shade of burgundy, I would be more than pleased), but also a long-lasting affair with modern-looking draping. I mean, how good are those evening dresses? Dreaming to see Tilda Swinton wearing one on the red carpet, oozing with some unconventional, anti-glamour seduction. In overall, the collection was very mature and minimal, but there were some charming remnants of the ‘old’, badass-pirate-style Haider. The jackets in precious gold (a striking contrast to soft lilac and light yellow) were made of a ‘cracked-up’ fabric, and if you scan it thoroughly, you will notice that it looks like a tattered wallpaper. Really, really good. Well, I should also add ‘as always’ in case of Ackermann.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.