While other fashion designers and brands struggle with identity this season, Haider Ackermann doesn’t have that problem. He’s true to himself and his style. And his spring-summer 2019 collection, that consisted of both womenswear and menswear, proved that in the most sublime way. “It’s a love affair, and I’m your man,” said Haider Ackermann after his double-gender show. “You love the thing about him and her, and how they might intertwine. It’s just a borrowing.” With Leonard Cohen on the soundtrack, the models looked confident, sensual and integrated in those clothes. Whether it’s a houndstooth print blazer, a yellow leather jacket with hand-done cut-outs or a kimono-like coat in a toned, abstract pattern, every single piece in this collection is quintessentially Haider. The finale earned a standing ovation from Tilda Swinton, the long-time friend of the designer. If she approves, I approve. Brilliant.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.