Positive. Marni Pre-Fall 2019

May 16, 2019 | Design & Culture by Ed

There’s always something very joyous and positive about Francesco Risso‘s approach to designing collections for Marni. For pre-fall 2019, which starts to hit the stores, he crashed prints and textures without much caution, creating a beautifully chaotic wardrobe for an equally unique personality. The utilitarian elegance of uniforms was translated into elongated dusters, sleek car coats and double-breasted peacoats in thick fabrics like felted and pressed bouclé, padded satin, polished leather, shearlings and ponyskins. Psychedelic brocades and Lurex jacquards were used in one blouse, while Inuit-inspired prints were mixed together in opera coats and skirts with half-plissé side panels. The recurring use of natural materials is a nod to the no-waste, responsible approach the designer emphasizes. I think Marni, with Risso’s folksy aesthic, can take a step forward and start making its collections from upcycled materials, too. And incorporate traditional artisans’ work into each collection. This would be a brilliant example for other Italian brands to follow.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

MFW: Tommy Time!

September 23, 2013August 31, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

The queen of Milanese Fashion Week, was of course Anna Dello Russo. She mastered the Celine tight sleevs dress, Loeve hairy shoes, Dolce & Gabbana mosaic dress, Givenchy printed sweater and Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane grunge look. In other words, the highlights of AW13. But still, my favourite was Anya Ziourova in Celine. She looked so amazing in it! And the Marcelo Burlon t-shirt couple looks like fun… MFW, it’s your last day!

Weird Party. Marc Jacobs SS14

September 13, 2013 | Design & Culture by Ed

“It’s more of a weird frat party, Burning Man, shores-of-Gotham City sort of beach scene. It’s a lovely nightmare, or it was for me anyway.” And this, more interestingly: “I didn’t want the cliché of Spring and Summer, I wanted it to be about girls who have no problem coming to work in a Victorian gown and Birkenstocks” said Marc Jacobs about his SS14 collection that with grace closed the New York Fashion Week. The venue was amazing- a huge, huge place, that reminded of something like a beach apocalypse- beach chairs, towels, sand, trees, cigarettes were lying in chaos everywhere. The models (the set of them was really impressive) were for example Cara Delevigne who flew straight from London through Atlantic to walk the runway for Marc and comeback on London Fashion Week… Sky Ferreira (!!!), Edie Campbell, Lily Mcmenamy, Georgia May Jagger and Hanne Gaby were also here. Coming back to collection, Marc Jacobs broke all the rules of the SS14 but in a good way- when everybody were into pure minimalism and pale clothes, MJ slapped it, with a print, embroidery and colour bomb- in a much darker colour than I expected. The clothes were inpired with Victorian era, widow weeds and some 21st century- birkenstocks again rocked the runway just like funny backpack totes! Definitely, that was one of these “weird” parties I would love to come…

Simple. Proenza Schouler SS14

September 11, 2013 | Design & Culture by Ed

For me, the Guggenheim Museum in New York is a place for inspiration hunting. Not only art there makes your imagination work, but also the architecture of this building- the spiral, white interior of Guggenheim is one of the most beautiful thing in NYC. And, I don’t know why, but it feels to me that the Proenza Schouler designer duo had their beautiful collection influenced with this magnificient place! The show venue of the collection of PS SS14 collection was happening in a typical NY loft. It started with delicate leather coats, then changed into some very Proenza prints and ended up with metallic skirts and tops. I should say I really like the mature version of Proenza Schouler- the 10 year old label changes dramatically from a toxic-coloured-and-neon-printed-amazon-frog-girl into a beautiful, New York lady that adors to walk every morning to Central Park and fancies a dance in one of the New York’s hottest lobster bars… In other words, the clothes, shoes (that are pretty funny) and bags from that Summer collection at Proenza Schouler are simply beautiful! This is the New New York Look!

NYFW: Tommy Time!

September 11, 2013August 31, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

What makes the New York Fashion Week even brighter? Not only the bright, orange lips at Rag & Bone and Prabal Gurung fluo-blue dresses… but the amazing street style that is snapped by Mr. Tommy Ton! When Hanne Gaby Odiele arrived on the street in super cool tank top and black & white jacket, every camera was on her. As Suzy Menkes wrote few months ago that Street Style is a circus for girls that just want to appear on Style.com, I think she takes this too serious… I think the Margaret Zhang and Mademoiselle Yulia rocked in their outfits… And the street style phenomena, Alexander Wang’s nice, Aila, already wore the t-shirt from her uncle’s collection with the “Parental Advisory” print! The Streets are full of creativity.

Logo. Alexander Wang SS14

September 8, 2013 | Design & Culture by Ed

The new collection of Alexander Wang was simply cool- certainly, Alex did feel that his label is in the status of the fame of his own logo. The collection was simply overflowing with the Alexander Wang black and white logo. And I did love it! This time Wang really excited me. The collection was all in white and black colours, with lots of transparency and funny PARENTAL ADVISORY sign that we all know from the films… Definetely Alexander Wang was inspired with the street fashion- lots of sweatshirts, shirt-dresses and sneakers were presented on really hot models! Hanne Gaby, Kasia Struss, Georgia May Jagger, Joan Smalls. Jourdan Dunn, Edie Campbell and the guest of the runway who full of grace closed the show- Erin Wasson, really made the event most buzzed about!

Modern. Prabal Gurung SS14

September 7, 2013 | Design & Culture by Ed

Prabal Gurung shocked New York with one thing- he did really shock! This SS14 collection is a masterpiece. It’s like a one big Picasso painting- ubstract, surrealistic and modern! With a runway covered with aluminium foil, the models “phress off the runway” in amazing leather skirts with colourful prints and amazing Zana Bayne custom made leather lingerie under these beautiful shirts… This season at PG was very lady-like (the forms, dresses, coats) but totally modernized with mesmerizing embroiderment Prabal detailing! There was a lot of discreet transparency in the skirts and blouses, which made the models look feminine within all these killing prints… After boring gowns and routine holograms, Gurung certainly did break his limits!

“PRABAL GURUNG has always taken the notion of a powerful woman seriously (see: sharp tailoring, bondage detailing, harness belts, etc.), and this season will be no different. For Spring ’14, Gurung collaborated with New York-based jeweler Chris Habana on a covetable collection of tough-chic, striking statement pieces, such as acrylic-adorned armor rings (which debut exclusively here) and razor-embellished ear cuffs. “What initially drew me to the beauty of Chris’ designs is that they are so raw yet painstakingly crafted,” Gurung told Style.com. “My heart lies downtown and his work reminds me of the glory days of New York, particularly the East Village, which was the underground epicenter of creativity.” Style.com exclusive for the new season jewellery at PG!