There’s always something very joyous and positive about Francesco Risso‘s approach to designing collections for Marni. For pre-fall 2019, which starts to hit the stores, he crashed prints and textures without much caution, creating a beautifully chaotic wardrobe for an equally unique personality. The utilitarian elegance of uniforms was translated into elongated dusters, sleek car coats and double-breasted peacoats in thick fabrics like felted and pressed bouclé, padded satin, polished leather, shearlings and ponyskins. Psychedelic brocades and Lurex jacquards were used in one blouse, while Inuit-inspired prints were mixed together in opera coats and skirts with half-plissé side panels. The recurring use of natural materials is a nod to the no-waste, responsible approach the designer emphasizes. I think Marni, with Risso’s folksy aesthic, can take a step forward and start making its collections from upcycled materials, too. And incorporate traditional artisans’ work into each collection. This would be a brilliant example for other Italian brands to follow.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
“It’s more of a weird frat party, Burning Man, shores-of-Gotham City sort of beach scene. It’s a lovely nightmare, or it was for me anyway.” And this, more interestingly: “I didn’t want the cliché of Spring and Summer, I wanted it to be about girls who have no problem coming to work in a Victorian gown and Birkenstocks” said Marc Jacobs about his SS14 collection that with grace closed the New York Fashion Week. The venue was amazing- a huge, huge place, that reminded of something like a beach apocalypse- beach chairs, towels, sand, trees, cigarettes were lying in chaos everywhere. The models (the set of them was really impressive) were for example Cara Delevigne who flew straight from London through Atlantic to walk the runway for Marc and comeback on London Fashion Week… Sky Ferreira (!!!), Edie Campbell, Lily Mcmenamy, Georgia May Jagger and Hanne Gaby were also here. Coming back to collection, Marc Jacobs broke all the rules of the SS14 but in a good way- when everybody were into pure minimalism and pale clothes, MJ slapped it, with a print, embroidery and colour bomb- in a much darker colour than I expected. The clothes were inpired with Victorian era, widow weeds and some 21st century- birkenstocks again rocked the runway just like funny backpack totes! Definitely, that was one of these “weird” parties I would love to come…
Prabal Gurung shocked New York with one thing- he did really shock! This SS14 collection is a masterpiece. It’s like a one big Picasso painting- ubstract, surrealistic and modern! With a runway covered with aluminium foil, the models “phress off the runway” in amazing leather skirts with colourful prints and amazing Zana Bayne custom made leather lingerie under these beautiful shirts… This season at PG was very lady-like (the forms, dresses, coats) but totally modernized with mesmerizing embroiderment Prabal detailing! There was a lot of discreet transparency in the skirts and blouses, which made the models look feminine within all these killing prints… After boring gowns and routine holograms, Gurung certainly did break his limits!
“PRABAL GURUNG has always taken the notion of a powerful woman seriously (see: sharp tailoring, bondage detailing, harness belts, etc.), and this season will be no different. For Spring ’14, Gurung collaborated with New York-based jeweler Chris Habana on a covetable collection of tough-chic, striking statement pieces, such as acrylic-adorned armor rings (which debut exclusively here) and razor-embellished ear cuffs. “What initially drew me to the beauty of Chris’ designs is that they are so raw yet painstakingly crafted,” Gurung told Style.com. “My heart lies downtown and his work reminds me of the glory days of New York, particularly the East Village, which was the underground epicenter of creativity.” Style.com exclusive for the new season jewellery at PG!