There’s always something very joyous and positive about Francesco Risso‘s approach to designing collections for Marni. For pre-fall 2019, which starts to hit the stores, he crashed prints and textures without much caution, creating a beautifully chaotic wardrobe for an equally unique personality. The utilitarian elegance of uniforms was translated into elongated dusters, sleek car coats and double-breasted peacoats in thick fabrics like felted and pressed bouclé, padded satin, polished leather, shearlings and ponyskins. Psychedelic brocades and Lurex jacquards were used in one blouse, while Inuit-inspired prints were mixed together in opera coats and skirts with half-plissé side panels. The recurring use of natural materials is a nod to the no-waste, responsible approach the designer emphasizes. I think Marni, with Risso’s folksy aesthic, can take a step forward and start making its collections from upcycled materials, too. And incorporate traditional artisans’ work into each collection. This would be a brilliant example for other Italian brands to follow.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
The queen of Milanese Fashion Week, was of course Anna Dello Russo. She mastered the Celine tight sleevs dress, Loeve hairy shoes, Dolce & Gabbana mosaic dress, Givenchy printed sweater and Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane grunge look. In other words, the highlights of AW13. But still, my favourite was Anya Ziourova in Celine. She looked so amazing in it! And the Marcelo Burlon t-shirt couple looks like fun… MFW, it’s your last day!
“It’s more of a weird frat party, Burning Man, shores-of-Gotham City sort of beach scene. It’s a lovely nightmare, or it was for me anyway.” And this, more interestingly: “I didn’t want the cliché of Spring and Summer, I wanted it to be about girls who have no problem coming to work in a Victorian gown and Birkenstocks” said Marc Jacobs about his SS14 collection that with grace closed the New York Fashion Week. The venue was amazing- a huge, huge place, that reminded of something like a beach apocalypse- beach chairs, towels, sand, trees, cigarettes were lying in chaos everywhere. The models (the set of them was really impressive) were for example Cara Delevigne who flew straight from London through Atlantic to walk the runway for Marc and comeback on London Fashion Week… Sky Ferreira (!!!), Edie Campbell, Lily Mcmenamy, Georgia May Jagger and Hanne Gaby were also here. Coming back to collection, Marc Jacobs broke all the rules of the SS14 but in a good way- when everybody were into pure minimalism and pale clothes, MJ slapped it, with a print, embroidery and colour bomb- in a much darker colour than I expected. The clothes were inpired with Victorian era, widow weeds and some 21st century- birkenstocks again rocked the runway just like funny backpack totes! Definitely, that was one of these “weird” parties I would love to come…
What makes the New York Fashion Week even brighter? Not only the bright, orange lips at Rag & Bone and Prabal Gurung fluo-blue dresses… but the amazing street style that is snapped by Mr. Tommy Ton! When Hanne Gaby Odiele arrived on the street in super cool tank top and black & white jacket, every camera was on her. As Suzy Menkes wrote few months ago that Street Style is a circus for girls that just want to appear on Style.com, I think she takes this too serious… I think the Margaret Zhang and Mademoiselle Yulia rocked in their outfits… And the street style phenomena, Alexander Wang’s nice, Aila, already wore the t-shirt from her uncle’s collection with the “Parental Advisory” print! The Streets are full of creativity.