Sleazy and Smarmy. Saint Laurent SS16

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This, what Hedi Slimane is doing at Saint Laurent is rude. Simply impolite. After seeing the spring-summer 2016 collection, I wonder what other designers think. They surely feel an unbearable frustration. Keeping up with fashion industry, season-to-season, is hard. And when they compare their hard work with Hedi’s, they just retire for a ten-day escape to the country-side. Hedi Slimane is praised for nothing – or at least, for his truly effortless fashion which doesn’t need much of thinking. Saint Laurent’s fashion became as shallow as Moschino by Jeremy Scott, or even to a bigger extend.

So, the SS16 collection is an explosion of smarmy eroticism – sheer slip-dresses, trashy fish-net tops and kitsch, gold sandals look tasteless and definitely not as expensive as they are. There is no big deal that the feather boa was made by the Parisian couture assistants, if it looks like a stolen prop from an opera. The tiaras don’t need any comment. And  “free the nipple” moments were meant to be so “accidental”, that the overall effect felt pretentious and artificial. The solemn faces of models (and Agyness Deyn) just helped Hedi Slimane say out loud – “I am the designer at YSL and I really don’t care“. If everybody, except a few of critics and consciously thinking clients, adore this collection, then where is fashion heading off to? Hopefully not to a pair of basic jeans and an effing tank top.

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Men’s – Kurt. Saint Laurent SS16

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Kurt Cobain. Courtney Love. These two names were audible during the recent Saint Laurent collection by Hedi Slimane. Hedi is famous for making crap looking clothes super expensive, but this time he went too far – the wardrobe for his SS16 men and Resort 2016 women is having a lot in common with today’s teenagers which fancy skating, alcohol and wild parties. And, Kurt Cobain eternal messy style, which might be cool only if its natural. Ripped denim (which looked so tattered that I nearly thought they were taken from a “too cool for school” person); every 14 year old’s must have chokers; chunky, slouchy cardigans. The worst? The styling, or rather lack of any styling. This what Hedi does now at Saint Laurent is purely about giving people back their clothes from adolescence , but in extreme prices. Is it fashion? Is it style? I suppose not.

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Hollywood Boulevard. Saint Laurent SS15

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Saint Laurent’s SS15 was a really sultry, hot and steamy event. Other designers are channeling the idealism of the early ’70s this season; Hedi Slimane is into the sexy. “Un, deux, trois, coucher avec toi,” Al Eide sang on the soundtrack, specially commissioned for the show, but don’t let the French lyrics fool you. Everybody got the impression they were in Slimane’s adopted hometown of L.A., hanging backstage with glam-rock fan girls Lori Maddox and Sable Starr in their bad old not even legal days on the Sunset Strip. Is the new collection new tendancy of dressing “slutty”? Is it the Parisian non-chalance? Is it only all about nightlife of Los Angeles teens? One thing’s sure- it’s totally, totally Hedi. He does this aesthetic from the beginning of her Saint Laurent career. And this makes him a real individual of fashion world. These killer heels, super mini skirts, bawdy sheer blouses and avant-garde turbans looked like contrast- but together, they created a chaotic harmony. Lets also note the couture part- the “dirty” dresses were all ambroidered with crystals and sequins. Up close, these skirts and blazers were all about eel leather and velvet. Still having mixed emotions about the collection, but it was surely one of the most unforgettable this season. Art by John Baldessari.

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