As Hedi Slimane evolualize Saint Laurent, all the stores worldwide were totally refurnished. Now, all the spaces of that luxurious French house are all in marble and mirrors that I simply love! It’s just the rock and roll aesthetic of Hedi! Simple, minimalistic, but with balls. And the clothes that supply this store in Berlin… Oh my! Thanks to Hedi Slimane I love Mohair! The striped sweaters are really cool… And all these biker jackets! And grunge boots! Aww. ❤❤❤
Saying that Hedi Slimane is lazy, as wrote Cathy Horyn, is a simple bah. A guy who redesigns everything from the logo to the showroom furnitures in his boutiques of Saint Laurent, doesn’t seem to be lazy at all. Hedi Slimane did a huge revolution at Saint Laurent and in fashion world, that seemed to be very peaceful comparing AW13 with the grunge/punk/Roc &Roll collection. And in reality, Slimane didn’t do this for more controversy- no, it’s all simply his aesthetics. When the designer of SL is not at work, he isn’t kissing Pinault’s ass for money but hangs out with friends/musicians in LA! So there is nothing that is done for more money. Well it is, but it’s not enforcing. People will still buy this kind of Yves Saint Laurent. So, Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane wins the second place in AW13 ranking of best collections!
This is the evidence of Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane tradition legacy to Yves style. Even if the AW13 was all about LA grunge chic, there was a huge, archival source- the pink, fluffy fur worn with tights covered of stones, and leather boots. In reality, Yves also loved and many times showed this kind of fur (even in green colour!) in his collections. And it looks as super stylish, as the one from the show! Oh, every day looking deeper and deepernin Yves archives, I feel love to Hedi Slimane working for this house! He is a real fashion revolutionist, breaking rules and kicking everybody’s face!
The Yves Saint Laurent Le Smoking look is schanging every season, but always stays black, simple and classical. Even if it is now Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane! The campaigns of this famous Parisian style looks maybe slightly different (models for example) but usually it’s all about one beautiful women in the Le Smoking and other one totally naked! Just like in 1975, when Le Smoking began to be a bestseller of the master, Yves. After his death, Stefano Pilati came and strangely looking from persepective of now, FORGOT how the Le Smoking should look like! There were some black jackets but there was no this parisian chic thing. Now, when it’s Hedi, after few months later when his AW13 show was presented, I think Hedi Slimane keeps the tradition much better than Stefano! Just check Net A Porter- you look, and mostly we can see the elegant jackets and trousers to the Le Smoking costumes! It’s chick, luxurious and elegant but Ready to Wear! And now this amazing campaign with Cara Delevigne (advertising YSL Baby Doll) with this naked women… This is like a new Helmut Newton work (he took this fabulous pic in 1975 on Rue Aubriot in Paris).
And today (but before Cara) Anja Rubik looks amazing in Le Smoking Slimane photography for his campaign. Here are pics of past Le Smoking campaigns and runway pics from Yves era! Chic, Chic!
And now just one thing… did you see the Louis Vuitton film for Love Magazine presenting top models (Cara, Magdalena Frackowiak…) walking naked in furs around Paris at night? And sitting in a car and doing sexy poses? This film by James Lima did a lot controversy in the media worl, for example that LV accuses prostitution in their campaign! Well… in 1975 Helmut Newton did a controversy with his Smoking campaign and nobody set it’s prostitution. By the way, in 1975 (again) there was this TOTALLY naked (in film Cara wears fur) and there was no real commotion about it. And that was kind of good then? It is good, as well as the film. So for what do the politicians do this commotion? in reality, there is a really short moment when one model show some parts. I think this film is more about fashion and sensuality than about prostitutions. For sure for controversy that Marc Jacobs likes to do…But should we care? I like it, just as the amazing Le Smoking!
THE OBSESSIONS editorial photos were taken by editor-in-chief of DESIGNANDCULTUREBYED, Edward.
Design & Culture by Ed 
