Mr. Jeanloup Sieff

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In honour of the World Photo Day, here’s a post devoted to one of the most intriquing image makers – and one of my all-time favourites – Jeanloup Sieff. Born in Paris, Jeanloup Sieff received a camera for his 14th birthday and since that moment he had a passionate love affair with it. Throughout his career, he introduced an innovative feel of eroticism to fashion photography that traditionally used to represent stiff, ice-cold models. In his hands, the camera adored the sitters and vice versa, making the shoot feel like more like a flirt. Often emphasizing a specific area of the body – mostly backs and bottoms – Jeanloup Sieff believed that ‘sometimes, the face is not interesting when the body is. Sometimes the face is a distraction.

With his wide-angle black and white images, the French photographer caught the dramatic potential of light and shadow while he often added a touch of humour to his pictures, playing with situations and his, lets not hide the fact, sexy sitters. Obsessed by women like Françoise Hardy or Mia Farrow, Jeanloup Sieff also captured one of fashion photography’s most legendary male nude – the controversial image of Yves Saint Laurent in 1971, for his perfume Y. Also, one can’t forget the couple-shot of Jane and Serge, the up-to-now epytome of French love.

 

Madonna Day

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Although Madonna‘s birthday happens only once in a year, and it’s today, I wouldn’t mind celebrating her personality everyday. So if you’re one of those people who ‘hate’ Madonna for her being her, then you better leave this spot, as it’s a heavy appreciation post. Whether photographed by Steven Klein, Steven Meisel or Rankin; whether posing in boudoir, going dirty with Tony Ward or confessing her love on the dance floor; whether dressed in Italianesque black lace or an all-American gear – she’s Madonna. While exploring blogs like this one, fully dedicated to her persona, I’m awestruck with the way she has changed and keeps on changing. Just like in music, where she’s can be fully soaked with emotions and then become ecstatically happy. A style maverick and an extraordinary artist.

Happy Birthday!

Gucci SS17 Campaign

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That’s a FUNtasy. 

Wild cats nonchalantly roam the romantic city alongside heavily-inked, outta-the-70s club kids. A giraffe is fed grapes as they all dine al fresco next to an ancient Roman aqueduct. Lions and tigers are welcomed into their postmodernist home as they watch TV. I guess Gucci wins the spring-summer 2017 campaigns – even though we haven’t seen what other brands prepared.

Photographed by Glen Luchford.

Read my review of Alessandro Michele‘s spring-summer 2017 collection here.

Céline & Yves Klein

Phoebe Philo has never kept herself away from art references since she became the creative director at Céline. Rather than placing artworks as prints on basic t-shirts and easy-to-sell totes, Philo takes her time to discover the artist of her latest obsession. For spring-summer 2017, the designer took Yves Klein’s compelling legacy for a spin, and the effect is redefines the term ‘stunning’.

During the last fashion week in Paris, the guests at Céline witnessed Phoebe’s feminine flowy tunics and dresses as canvas for Klein’s most vibrant work from his Anthropometry period, which sparked controversy in the 60s art world. Yves’ shocking performances involved women, who painted their naked bodies before an audience to the tune his self-composed music. His famous use of ‘human paintbrushes’ paved the way for a new kind of performance art, while it also became a new technique of expression through painting. Yves always used to say that his art is filled with “poetic energy”: the dynamism rooted in his work is truly powerful, and it electrifies the viewer up to today.

In her latest collection for Céline, Philo celebrates every type of women – from mothers who come to school to pick up their kids to passionate lovers, spring-summer 2017 strikes with variety of characters. The pieces featuring Klein’s work aren’t just nods to Phoebe’s favorite artist. It’s about temperament; constant movement. The women who participated in Klein’s performance weren’t scared of the wave of criticism which primarily hit them for taking part in those “vulgar events”. Together with the artist, they expressed themselves through the medium of their bodies, and paint. The collection is as multi-faceted as women are, and Philo gets that better than any other designer today by playing with unobvious inspirations.

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Warm Things. A Détacher AW15

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Lately, I’ve got an eye on A Détacher, the label which was found by a Polish native, Mona Kowalska. With her own boutique on Mott Street and eponymous label, Mona is New York’s phenomen. In my opinion, she’s an inspiring, wonder woman, which is rarely spotted by big magazines and websites. Her collections are always true to her philosophy – the clothes should be comfortable, but with an edge.

This time, she continues what she’s best at – warm, soft knitted cardigans, fluffy shoes, tights and calm, but vibrant, prints. But the prints, however, soon gave way to the explosion—literally, with a great black-and-white photoprint of Vesuvius mid-eruption, and more abstractly with a energetic-looking orange and navy print. Although we had volcanos here, we should keep in mind that the clothes had something domestic about them. And hearty. The heavy cable-knit sweaters, suede skirts and semi-ponchos are just few examples. These lifey clothes will definitely find happy homes in the closets of arty women like Kowalska!

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Calm Down

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Dries Van Noten is man, that knows what women want, and that’s not so common nowadays. His collections are always so clear, so feminine and beautiful… for SS11, for example, we had a blast of hand-painted florals; for AW12, Dries brought oriental mood to his chic silhouettes; for SS15, he made the models (and clothes) calm down and sit down on a hand-made carpet from Buenos Aires. Known for great styling skills, he was the first to make a woolen sweater, striped shirt and feather-appliqued midi skirt look so good. Forgetting about being shiny on the New Year eve- maybe one of those outfits will inspire you?

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Cozy Threads. Thakoon Pre-Fall’15

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Wow. Thakoon, bravo. Jacquard, shearling, threads, wool… the layering is endless. And this pre-fall is one to love. I have never been a big fan of Thakoon – I just couldn’t get their aesthetics, their collections felt like a big yawn – but this one is great. Why? I love the way it’s composed: a knitted sweater, white shirt, skirt or a knitted collar, high-waisted coat and lovely jacquard culottes. It all works together, creating a beautiful unity in texture and print. Again it’s a layering perfection. The person who styled the look-book is a genius, too. The ethnic photographs are via Thracian Threads tumblr: this Bulgarian atmosphere of fur, embroidery and knitwear really catches the theme of the clothes!

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So French. Chloe Pre-Fall’15

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For pre-fall, Chloe’s Clare Waight Keller felt the attitude of freedom, continuing SS15’s main theme. Somewhere between David Bowie and Kate Bush scene craziness and Jane Birkin’s fashion for bow shirts, Clare outstood herself. This collection was basically a master-piece. Pony hair A-skirts, python leather bags, brown palette capes, tweed blazers and “whatever” trousers are just few of my favourites. The models, kept in very Parisian styling, looked casual but stylish and strong. And then very sexy butterfly wings —and that sensuality operated throughout the collection as a whole. Chloé is usually associated with a kind of virginal, flirty look, but Waight Keller chucked it this time—some of these clothes were intensely womanly, others rather boyish, and a good deal of them were borderline feral. So, whether Clare thought of androgynous Bowie or feminine Birkin- this clash works on me.

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Big in Japan. Carven SS15

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All inspired with Japanese traditional art and the strong, colourful lines and shapes of Tokyo, Henry Guillaume showed a pretty preppy collection. Slightly similar to Proenza Schouler’s SS15 back in New York, the collection is all about python, yellow and… carrying a bag. Yep. You don’t wear THAT bag normally. You carry it the way, that everybody can SEE it. And it’s pretty cool, too. I loved most the prints of japonesque sakura gardens and koi fish- it felt relaxing and calm, in contrast to those bold silhouttes. Plus, the collection was all about 70’s, like everything this summer. Zippers, A-line skirts, flat ankle boots… kind of normal, but very highlighted.

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