You can always rely on Isabel Marant. She will never let you down. But her autumn-winter 2024 collection was exceptionally brilliant. It was co-designed with artistic director Kim Bekker, who came out on the runway together with Marant. “There’s a lot of leather,” the eternal queen of Parisian chic said, “but at the same time, even though it’s quite luxurious, it’s also very easy and wearable.” There were great voluminous 1980s inflected blouson jackets in shearling or leather, à la the late Claude Montana, in olive, chocolate, or black, and because you can never have too much of a good thing, they often came worn with matching leather mini skirts, or lanky, leg lengthening pants. Aesthetically, this collection was very Emmanuelle Alt for Vogue Paris – once underrated, now hugely missed as Condé Nast is gradually homogenizing all the Vogues in terms of image. The designers used the suedes and leathers for scrunched boots resting on tiny heels, some of which came embellished with jewelry, or casual, effortless tooled suede bags swinging with fringe. Those boots and bags had a bit of a gaucho vibe. In fact, a lot of this collection did: with the short fringed sarape skirts; the blanket throw coats; the suede scarves wound around the neck; and with a killer pair of black tasseled trousers which had been riveted with silver studs, and worn under a shrugged on black trench. Into this richly layered mix went mens’ chunky cable knit sweaters, rock ‘n’ roll leopard micro-print jeans, utilitarian jumpsuits, stacks of bangles, and a fantastic combo of a beige weathered cotton drill shirt, perfect in its slouchy proportions with a pair of equally weathered cotton trousers also cut with a slouchier attitude. What’s not to love?
Urgently need some Isabel Marant in your wardrobe? I’ve got you covered!
ED’s DISPATCH:
Balskee wedged sneakers – forever très cool.
Medilia sleeveless shearling jacket
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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