A Day in Portofino

July 31, 2018July 31, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

In the past, it used to be a romantic, silent fishing village. Still, even though Portofino is what it is today – an exclusive, expensive resort town filled with fancy shops (Demna Gvasalia’s Balenciaga doesn’t really match the local ‘Italian prettiness’, to be honest), yachts, elegant coffee shops and restaurants that are simply overcrowded with tourists (didn’t see Giorgio Armani or Rihanna in any, ha…) – it looks like a postcard. Specifically, a postcard you wouldn’t mind finding in your post! But if you find yourself slightly bored with the cliché part of Portofino, so the pedestrian area near the sea, don’t hesitate to go up the beautiful pine forest. Oh, and you don’t want to miss the last ferry to Santa Margherita Ligure – or else you go bankrupt, staying at Splendido Hotel for the night. Note: it’s very difficult to get to Portofino by car.

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All photos by Edward Kanarecki.

Galleria Mazzini in Genoa

July 27, 2018July 29, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

If you love vintage (especially proper, opulent, slightly kitschy Italian vintage), you’ve got to visit Galleria Mazzini in Genoa. This historical passage, that as well holds a number of coffee shops and boutiques, is also where all the Genoan antique specialists sell their finds. From Italian furniture classics from the 60s and century old posters to colourful old school car toys and jet-set era Gucci bags, this place has some true treasures. The prices are high, but the guys here are ready to bargain. Want more on Genoa? Click here.

Galleria Giuseppe Mazzini / Genoa

Photos by Edward Kanarecki.

When in Genoa

July 25, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Once called the ‘mistress of the sea’ due to its port, today Genoa (also read as Genova) isn’t that much in favour, especially if speaking of tourists. There’s no sense in planning your walk around the historic centre of the city. The streets and narrow caruggi twine and tangle without much logic, so it’s better to go with the flow (but remember not to get too lost – it’s better to stay in the main part of the city, since Genoa in general is infamous for being one of the least safe places in Italy). The local roughness and state of dilapidated, close-to-ruin buildings might repel at the beginning, but you will surely feel the charm on the second day of your stay. Genoa reminds you that Italy isn’t that polished after all, and the laundry getting dried on the streets isn’t a postcard cliché, but reality. What’s definitely worth visiting is Cattedrale di San Lorenzo (which is somewhere between Gothic and Baroque style) that stores an underground treasury. Still, Genoa’s streets intrigued me the most. At some moments they get totally dark, even in the day-time. Not only because they are narrow; the townhouses are surprisingly tall as well. The effect is highly cinematic. Also note all the small food markets. For coffee, go to the chic Caffè Degli Specchi that has the best ice coffee, while for small shopping try Aspesi (best ‘Made in Italy’ shirts in very affordable prices) and the vintage market situated at Galleria Mazzini (next post is coming up on that magical place!). But in the end, even though every guide seems to hate Genoa, we had great time here. We weren’t robbed or anything like that!

A hint: if you’re travelling in a big car, Genoa might be a hard nut to crack. Parking here is a nightmare, and no guide will tell you this…

More of my addresses from Genoa are right here.

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All photos by Edward Kanarecki.

Italy, Coming!

June 27, 2018June 25, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

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Sophia Loren by Richard Avedon.

Off to Italy for a road trip! Will be late with the rest of the spring-summer 2019 reviews, but no worries, some posts will be coming up in the meantime (like Lisbon guide or the Carla Sozzani exhibition in Helmut Newton Foundation in Berlin). Stay tuned.

Italian Party. Missoni SS18

September 24, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Exactly 20 years ago, Angela Missoni took on the role of creative director at the brand her parents founded. So yes, that’s a reason to do a very festive collection. Pieces from Missoni spring-summer 2018 just beg for an invitation to a garden party, Italian-way of course. Soft and light knits in all shades of aquamarine and covered in signature zig-zag patterns; sheer capes and fleecy cardigans wrapped around the body; big hats ready for sunset-watching. Now, picture this: wearing Missoni, take a sip of red wine and induldge yourself in some sage-flavoured raviolli. Gossip with your Italian friends. I think I’m buying that.

Angela always makes Missoni look contemporary, while relying on unconventional, edgy styling. What’s more, she doesn’t fall too hard into the house’s archives, but goes her own path. Her 20 years of creative direction are success, as she managed to keep Missoni an Italian heritage brand that’s relevant. And what’s this season’s biggest change? The brand’s womenswear and menswear is shown together, a runway-model adapted by many other Italian brands latelt. The boys, wearing their thin knitted scarves and printed shirts are happy to join that party, too.