Humanly. JW Anderson SS18

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Big changes were foreshadowed at J.W. Anderson‘s spring-summer 2018 collection minutes before the show kicked-off. No claustrophobic corridor venue, but a circular runway with an art installation in the heart of it. The clothes’ aesthetic was far different, too. Criss-cross bungee cord and textured linens gave the collection a… leisure-y attitude. Wait, leisure at J.W. Anderson, where it’s always about the explosion of off-beat references, complexity and radiant colours? Yes, that’s happening. Kitchen implements on the catwalk and tablecloth-inspired homespun textiles with the brand’s logo – that was Jonathan Anderson‘s appreciation of ‘at home’ feeling, where everything is intimate and close to your comfort zone. Quite unexpected from a designer, who is known for twisting, collaging and reshaping ideas of fashion, always in a hurry. Just like in case of his last, very laid-back fashion show for men that we’ve seen at Pitti Uomo, Anderson takes a break and wants to clear his (and yours) busy mindset. “Media makes us hysterical. We have to go back to what we know to be humanly grounded,” the designer noted backstage of his show. If you’re still unsure or uneasy with realising Anderson’s new, ‘domesticated’ direction, the Hessian-topped espadrille boots that bottomed nearly every look will get you grounded for summers to come. Or the loose mint-green dress. To my own surprise, I’m really seeing Anderson’s clothes somewhere on a beach or in a well-kept garden of a, let’s say, art-curator (who simply needs to chill sometimes, too).

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki

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Men’s / Strip Everything Back. JW Anderson SS18

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Looking back at J.W. Anderson‘s memorable man-skirts or heavy boots covered with studs and flowers, you would never believe that the designer might suddenly do something so… simple. “No-fuss fashion basic-ness. Trying to strip everything back.” This is how Jonathan Anderson summed up his spring-summer 2018 collection presented at Florentine gardens of the Villa La Pietra (as a special guest of the season’s Pitti Uomo). And then he added, “I think this is the first season I’ve tried everything on myself. It was like going back into yourself.” Even the jeans are cut in the way he really likes it. And I like this type of cut, too – slightly baggy, cropped. Also, who doesn’t love a pair of off-duty Converse? Anderson collaborated with the sneakers brand for the upcoming season. Multicoloured heart patches bring on the hippie mood of carefree, summer nights. Chunky knits and tattered-looking jackets will be the perfect choice for a breezy beach day. Sometimes it’s worth going chinos and loose t-shirts, to just settle down and chill.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.