Jonathan Anderson transformed Loewe into a fertile ground for experimentation, yet the results – even at their most conceptual and surreal – retained a warmth reminiscent of the Balearic sun. Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough continue this experimental tradition, but their work comes across as awkwardly distant and cold. Their sophomore collection showcases an array of the brand’s technical possibilities – zip-front latex coats resembling Play-Doh toys, bell-shaped silhouettes rendered in shaved and dyed brushed shearling – yet, despite these inventive constructions, there is a noticeable absence of wit and lightness in the voluminous, built-up forms. The eveningwear, too, feels overworked, burdened by unnecessary folds and wraps. The former-Proenza duo would benefit from rediscovering a sense of sensuality – and a more vibrant, actually playful spirit – in their Loewe. I’d argue that nobody wants to look like a serious alien.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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