Dadaism Allure. Jacquemus AW15

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Dadaistic silhouettes. Primitively covered faces. Barefoot. Nudity. Simone Porte Jacquemus continues his “naive” fashion journey, keeping his AW15 the most mature of all. With faces painted by Sebastien Bieniek, which felt very abstract (and creepy), the collection provokes and at the same time shows primitive cuts and simple way of attaching textiles. Explaining that he wanted to capture some of the instinctual feel of being a child, the designer said: “I cut jackets like little kids will do—sometimes the cut is weird, there is just a half top. I like this randomness.” But what does the NSFW dose mean? In my opinion, just like the twirling black hands, it’s a part of some kind conceptual performance which Jacquemus shows off. The whole collection, full of exaggeration and peculiar sex-appeal felt even more artistic and disturbing when you looked at the venue “designed” by Alex de Betak – walls with hole, camping chairs for the guests, dust and a smell of fresh paint. Escapism at its full strength. Although this collection might feel eerie for many, I like it’s elusiveness – it’s magnetising. And, let’s be honest – for a while, we didn’t see any show that was really strange and more than entertaining.

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Gris. Jacquemus Pre-Fall’15

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Jacquemus gets commercial… and this is his first pre-fall collection. This look-book is not the thing you would expect from Simone Porte – his usually naive, colourful collections are contradictory to this mature, sharp and, as the name suggest, grey-shaded pre-fall. The background seems to be disturbing, too – factories and desolated beach… if talking of the clothes, we can observe exaggerated shoulders, school-uniform lengths and rounded “panels” jutting out of the skirts and tops. Personally, I prefered Jacquemus being more… conceptual? Not that muted?

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