She’s a party girl – that’s quite clear once you look at Anthony Vaccarello‘s pre-fall 2018 look-book for Saint Laurent, and the attitude of the woman he envisions. That transitional wardrobe is meant to be classically YSL, but suited for contemporary times. We’ve got bohemian blouses, velvet Le Smoking blazers, leopard spots all over platform boots, studded leather miniskirts, gold lamé minidress – the list goes on. With the ‘Mick Jagger in Morocco’ look, wearing non-chalantly tied shawls and embroidered vests, Mica Arganaraz and Jamie Bochert are like a match-made-in-heaven for this look-book.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Here we’re again – at the New York Fashion week, the starting point of fashion month marathon. And who’s on the first shot? Chris Leba‘s rebellious R13. Launched in 2009, R13 was firstly associated with denim and apparel essentials like plaid shirts and tank-tops. Right now, it’s on the same sporty-grunge-cool shelf as Rag & Bone or Alexander Wang, reviving the 90s and sparking New York’s all-night party mood. Leba’s autumn-winter 2017 collection was nearly, but NEARLY, like one of those perfectly curated Tumblrs filled with nostalgic photos of Courtney Love, Kurt Cobain (the latter’s face was placed on one of the extra-big sweatshirts) and Kate Moss doing cocaine. But – thanks God – it didn’t fall into a cliché, which heavily hit last season’s designers. Although there were floral-print slip dresses and shearling jackets, R13 felt different, the attitude of these clothes was real. Tailored coats, over-sized chunky knits, semi-Victoriana collar shirts – this is precisely how a New York model scout or editor would dress today. From brilliant model cast (Lera Abova, Jamie Bochert, Julia Banas to name a few) to styling, Leba’s entry to the new season is a success.
Tomas Maier knows how to make the audience love his discreet, calm Bottega Veneta collections – sending out Jamie Bochert in a total-black look made up of a coat, fringed scarf, sleek flares and silver-polished pumps effortlessly becomes one of the season’s best looks. The next looks were nearly as good as the opening – new Italian machinery industry has brought a revolution in knitting, and that’s visible in these lady-like skirts, pants and coats. The collection had a bit of non-chalance, too – the masculine smoking was unbuttoned, to expose a black bra which conveyed the good, clubbing 70’s. Refined chic, based on your grandma’s tweed coat, necklaces and knitted tops, has never felt so up to date as now, at Bottega.
Pablo Coppola is the man behind Bally revamp. This Swiss brand has never been so anticipated during Milan Fashion Week. Their calm, but sophisticated presentation concentrated on the garments made of the best quality leather – coats, jackets and accessories are the biggest assets of Bally at the moment. The simple, maxi dresses look effortless just like other pieces. Although the spring-summer 2016 look-book with Issa Lish and Jamie Bochert is a bit of a yawn, the plans for the brand’s new image in the fashion industry are impressive.
Anything worn by Jamie Bochert seems to be elusively chic – and the latest collection from New York’s Gary Graham proves the statement. Beautifully appliqued skirts, elegant tailored shirts, knit and velvet usage and interesting print mash-up is what feels chic right now, and not only in New York. What seems to be ultra cool about the collection, is the fact that all the clothes are between the border of casual and evening wear – comfortable turtlenecks are worn with embroidered skirts while long dresses seem to be as flawless as one of these “go-to” suits. I am really wondering what Graham’s up to in the future…