I was crying during the show! That was so, so horrifying that Marc Jacobs is out of Louis Vuitton and that it was his last collection for this luxurious fashion house from Paris. Will somebody be better than this American in Paris? Surely, these were fantastic years with Jacobs- Night Porter, geometrical shapes, boudoir, trains, grunge, African tribal inspirations… These were just few of things that were accompanying us together with Jacobs. It will be very sad for now. But, about the collection now. It was like a mix of everything that Marc did for LV. The show was presented in gothic venue with a dark fountain, victorian buildings and a grand clock that gave a dramatic twist to the collection. Edie Campbell, the muse of Marc Jacobs, opened the collection in an amazing logo body, having chains and a massive feather decoration on head. The next models (a lot of famous faces!) were also dresses in Victorian inspired way- detailed gowns, feather hats and… yes, denim jeans that was a surprise. That looked epic. C’mon, only MJ could mix a Victorian dress with jeans. And that’s why my heart will always have a place for Marc Jacobs collection. Even if they will be a fail.
Jamie Bochert
Disco Party. Lanvin SS14
That was a very classical Lanvin collection- dresses, jackets, t-shirts with skirts- ant that all in energetic metallic fabrics! Well, that was surely not the best Lanvin, but it wasn’t bad. I loved the Great Gatsby inspired dresses- in reality, the collection was like a loud party under Jay Gatsby’s roof. Everything was kitschy and full of splendour… and what a bit suprised me, pretty warm as for Summer. But still, the collection was nothing spectacural, although cool. Very Lanvin!
Simple. Proenza Schouler SS14
For me, the Guggenheim Museum in New York is a place for inspiration hunting. Not only art there makes your imagination work, but also the architecture of this building- the spiral, white interior of Guggenheim is one of the most beautiful thing in NYC. And, I don’t know why, but it feels to me that the Proenza Schouler designer duo had their beautiful collection influenced with this magnificient place! The show venue of the collection of PS SS14 collection was happening in a typical NY loft. It started with delicate leather coats, then changed into some very Proenza prints and ended up with metallic skirts and tops. I should say I really like the mature version of Proenza Schouler- the 10 year old label changes dramatically from a toxic-coloured-and-neon-printed-amazon-frog-girl into a beautiful, New York lady that adors to walk every morning to Central Park and fancies a dance in one of the New York’s hottest lobster bars… In other words, the clothes, shoes (that are pretty funny) and bags from that Summer collection at Proenza Schouler are simply beautiful! This is the New New York Look!
✈ Kinetic Travel at Chanel ✈
A destroyed theatre, with smashed windows and peeling walls, was filled with scruffy, pre-war chairs where the guest would seat. Something is going to happen. Then something amazing happens, that even Rihanna and Natalia Vodianova gasp with excitement. From under the dark curtain thats hanging above the scene, a 3-D installation of metallic skyscrapers and blue sky are coming out. And it’s of course all in Grand Palais!
“It’s a new world” Karl Lagerfeld says, thinking of Singapore, where his Chanel resort was presented. The damaged theatre, as Karl said suggested Coco Chanel coming back after war, looking in Paris for something beautiful and quiet- rebuilding the fashion house. It is like a closed chapter of Chanel that Karl wanted to show. Now a new one, modern and elusive chapter is opened for the Parisian house. But the show was very dynamic, models ran the catwalk like on the olympics. Yes it sounds all very cosmic, but the clothes weren’t at all crazy. Tweed suites in new silver colours made from different weaving methods; dresses that were called kinetic by the designer, had a eerie silver polish.
There is also a pretty dangerous trend upcoming in jewellery- putting small diamond rings on all fingers in the hands, but- not in the typical place for wearing rings, but nearly on the nails! This bling looks really nice and modernistic, but feels a bit uncomfortable. Never wear it to a fish restaurant wee you may eat some crabs or shrimps; don’t wash your hands in it because you don’t really want to take out your diamonds from the sink. That’s why this trend in jewellery is super unpractical but super fashionable!
New models were tapped to the show- mostly Asian newcomers and rest was the it girls- Ashleigh Good, Jamie Bochert, Lindsey Wixson and Joan Smalls. There seems that a strong change is coming up to Chanel from the Eastern part of the world- time will show.
Design & Culture by Ed 