Don’t expect extravaganza from Jason Wu. But if talking of contemporary elegance, this guy is a master of it. From Marlene Dietrich to Diana Vreeland on his mind, Wu presented a lady-like collection filled with chic lace, shoulder-exposing tops in beige and minimal floral mini-dresses. Of course, there is a spot for eveningwear – take the ecru silk dress with feather applications worn by the last season’s top-runway-walker, Lineisy Montero. In fact, at Jason Wu’s house even a duvet jacket looks alluring, when made of black velvet. As Jason Wu is usually called as the first luxurious brand to show during the New York fashion week, you instantly want to have a tea instead of coffee, and move to a place where they serve foie gras rather than Starbucks brownie.
Yum! Jason Wu presented a nutritious collection this morning, featuring the juicy colour of peach. Peach felt totally right this season, brightening up a bit the designer’s usual palette. Peach tuxedos, peach coats, peach furs. Right! Furs. For Resort. That’s a right move, Wu – when clients start to invest in Resort, it is still cold outside – and let’s be honest, nobody cares about swimming suits and summer dresses when it’s still winter. So, that is a very smart move from the brand’s side. Hopefully, this fresh (and very practical) idea will be continued by other designers… Coming back to the clothes, the typical Jason Wu sleek mood was noticed, including tailored trousers and interesting jackets. Also, some delicate embroideries were seen, giving us a healthy dose of eveningwear in the collection.
Fashion and culture always had a power, if joint together. So no wonder why the artsy trend for fall’14 are so strong- we’ve got Bauhaus architecture, we’ve got Russian films and we’ve got dadaism- an art movement of the European avant-garde in the early 20th century. Many claim Dada began in Zurich, Switzerland in 1916, spreading to Berlin shortly thereafter but the height of New York Dada was the year before, in 1915. One of the most famous dada artist is Hannah Höch. The collage art movent which had a lot of grey, khaki and solemn colours, got spotted at Celine, Carven and Haider Ackermann this season.
Weimar was another artistic movement, but this time coming from Germany. With Bauhaus at it’s roots, Weimar was popular for it’s geometrical forms, strong colours and minimalism. The rectangular pockets from Givenchy are totally Weimar, isn’t it? And these Jacquemus coats and bold, Thomas Tait dresses…
Bauhaus! art school in Germany that combined crafts and the fine arts, and was famous for the approach to design that it publicized and taught. It operated from 1919 to 1933. At that time the German term Bauhaus – literally “house of construction” – was understood as meaning “School of Building”. It’s most famous graduate? Mies Van Der Rohe. But nowaday, it’s Prada, Balenciaga, Alexander Wang, Dior and Acne, who does the symetrical silhouttes and metallic “constructions” in their designs (best example- that Prada wedge).
If talking of cinema, Miuccia Prada learnt by hard all the scens of The Bitter Tears of Petra von Kant. This German movie from 1972 has an all-female cast and is set in the home of the protagonist, Petra von Kant (Berliner fashion designer). It follows the changing dynamics in her relationships with the other women. It’s very sensual, and the clothes and mood perfectly match into Prada’s AW14.
The Place of Meeting Can’t be Changed is a Russian movie, which has it’s plot happening in 1945, Moscow. The fashion here strongly reflects Nicolas Ghesquiere’s debutant Louis Vuitton collection. The higlighted collars, masculine jackets, v cuts, floral prints and tweed are all very, very 40’s.
Aah, Marlene Dietrich! The famous singer and actress, all-time fashion icon! Her flawless gowns and love to non-chalant fur is strongly visible in the moodboards of such designers like Jason Wu, Rodebjer and Ports 1961. In other words, lady-like, chic and effortless.