Allure. Jason Wu AW16

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Don’t expect extravaganza from Jason Wu. But if talking of contemporary elegance, this guy is a master of it. From Marlene Dietrich to Diana Vreeland on his mind, Wu presented a lady-like collection filled with chic lace, shoulder-exposing tops in beige and minimal floral mini-dresses. Of course, there is a spot for eveningwear – take the ecru silk dress with feather applications worn by the last season’s top-runway-walker, Lineisy Montero. In fact, at Jason Wu’s house even a duvet jacket looks alluring, when made of black velvet. As Jason Wu is usually called as the first luxurious brand to show during the New York fashion week, you instantly want to have a tea instead of coffee, and move to a place where they serve foie gras rather than Starbucks brownie.

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Peach & Fur. Jason Wu Resort’16

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Yum! Jason Wu presented a nutritious collection this morning, featuring the juicy colour of peach. Peach felt totally right this season, brightening up a bit the designer’s usual palette. Peach tuxedos, peach coats, peach furs. Right! Furs. For Resort. That’s a right move, Wu – when clients start to invest in Resort, it is still cold outside – and let’s be honest, nobody cares about swimming suits and summer dresses when it’s still winter. So, that is a very smart move from the brand’s side. Hopefully, this fresh (and very practical) idea will be continued by other designers…  Coming back to the clothes, the typical Jason Wu sleek mood was noticed, including tailored trousers and interesting jackets. Also, some delicate embroideries were seen, giving us a healthy dose of eveningwear in the collection.

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Seductive. Jason Wu AW15

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Well, Jason Wu – you nailed it. The first time for a very long time. Fox fur, crocodile leather and enchanting olive-green colour are all the ingredients Wu used to make this collection super seductive and sexy. It’s a bit modern-day Marlene Dietrich, a bit Catherine Deneuve – elusive, romantic, sexy. “There’s something definitely glamorous about it.” The belted fur coat that closed the show came closest to capturing Deneuve’s glam factor. Otherwise it was hard to shake the feeling that Wu was playing things too safe. And I really like that new mood at Jason’s house. By the way, he new faces – Grace Hartzel, Rianne van Rompaey and Mica Arganaraz – are stunning.

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