The Grand Finale. Jean Paul Gaultier Couture SS20

Euphoric. Bold. Joyous. Fantastic. Pushing boundaries. Forever iconic. That’s Jean Paul Gaultier. Many of the conversations we are having today – about such issues as diversity, gender fluidity, recycling, and sustainability – are built into the Gaultier DNA, and reused by other designer subconsciously. Since his first show in 1976, he has shown pan-generational models of all sizes, genders, and ethnicities on his runway, because they reflected the real-life people on the streets who inspired his style. Rossy De Palma, Blond Ambition Tour cone bras, Dita Von Teese, leather, trompe l’oeil, Beatrice Dalle, France, queer, sailors, sex, body… COUTURE! Although it’s Gaultier’s last fashion show ever, it’s not the end of his career. Can’t wait to see what he’s up to next!

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Throwback Sunday – Jean Paul Gaultier 1994

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#ThrobackSunday – spring / summer 1994

This show is such a fundamental base for today’s hype brands like Gypsy Sport, Eckhaus Latta and Pigalle Paris. Back in the years, Jean Paul Gaultier was a real enfant terrible of fashion. One of his first collections, Les Tatouages from 1994, is uptil today a symbol of diversity in fashion. The show was full of unexpected and bewildering references that included men in skirts, hip-hop denim volumes, Joan of Arc–style armor, tattoo trompe l’oeil tops and yes, even corsets. The bold, Indian and African tribal nods played a significant role in this fierce outing of models (for example Stella Tennant and Naomi Campbell, who back then were still the newcomers) and Gaultier’s close friends (like the eccentric and charismatic Rossy De Palma). In my opinion, this collection has not only defined the extravagant chic that Jean Paul Gaultier represents throughout his fashion career – this collection is up-to-date a loud and warm welcome to everybody who wants to be in fashion, of whatever size, skin colour or culture they are.

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Jean Paul Gaultier at Grand Palais

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Nicknamed “the enfant terrible of fashion” by the press since his first shows in the 70’s, Jean Paul Gaultier is undoubtedly one of the most important and avant-garde fashion designers of recent decades. Made between 1971 and 2015, the examples of his bold creativity have for the most part never been on public display like now at Grand Palais in Paris. His couture and ready-to-wear which always seemed to be different, very early caught on concerns and challenges of a multicultural society, playfully imposing aesthetic codes. More than any other couturier, this exhibition expresses his humanity. The whole event is divided into few “periods” of his career in fashion. The Odyssey refers to what might be named the “founding myths” of Paul’s universe – mariner chic and his signature stripes, mermaids and long sea voyages. Then, Gaultier had his vision of punk, but in a cancan version. Fascinated by the Paris of Belle Epoque, Toulouse Lautrec, the Moulin Rouge and Brassai, the couturier used to mix frivolous and flirty silhouettes with rebellious fashion outings and contoversy-causing way of dressing. From the beginning, the enfant terrible was attracted to unconventional beauties. Muses. Madonna, Kylie Minouge, Beth Ditto, Rossy De Palma and many more women and men who were full of “spark” gave Jean Paul Gaultier inspiration. Even the clothes he designed for Luc Besson’s film, Fifth Element, were designed by him because he felt close to the directors strong vision and imagination. I

n his collections, Gaultier questioned the concepts of gender, nudity and eroticism. While basing his ideas on those, Jean started to use textiles that weren’t used in couture before – latex, leather, fish net, harness and other fabrics that are associated with the word sexy. He offered hypersexualised clothing (like corset dresses) and evoked a new type of romance and fetishism in the world of fashion. In the last section of the exhibition, you can see the Urban Jungle – a fierce dose of colour and references to various ethnic groups. bullfighter bolero jackets, the shtreimel and long coats made of rabbits, gilets from Mongolia, geisha kimonos, flamenco skirts and African masks as the new bride alternative. And all of that modified with his long-time signatures – corset silhouettes and intense emphasis on details. Seeing all of these stages of Gaultier’s career seemed like a dream-come-true. And having a chance to observe and have a look at all those clothes, scenarios and extravagance felt quite insane, but great.

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TREND REPORT SS14

TREND REPORT

 Definitely, November is the right time to get to know closer the hottest trends from SS14 runways. In this exclusive guide to the new season, you will find lots of inspirations, new designers and the most coolest styles and looks of Summer 2014. From the gold skirts to net tops, and from tribal inspirations to modern art, there is no way to miss this amazing season!

GOLD RUSH

GOLD RUSH- the golden polished skirts and dresses are definitely not only classics of Summer wardrobe, but also a must have this season. Proenza Schouler, Dries Van Noten, Haider Ackermann, Creatures of The Wind, Altuzarra.

RED WINE

RED WINE- The colour of burgundy seems to be a pretty heavy colour for Summer- but no worries, Marc Jacobs and Margiela made it top listers, so why not give it a try? Maison Martin Margiela, Givenchy, Proenza Schouler, Marc Jacobs.

TRIBE ATTACK

TRIBE ATTACK- Designers of SS14 were really inspired with African and South American tribes. Alexander McQueen show took us to a futuristic Masai village, were women wear feathers, reds and helmets; Valentino however visited South American major places like Incan and Aztec empires, plus having a peek at Mexico and Guatemala… Valentino, Givenchy, Alexander McQueen, Junya Watanabe.

ART-ART-ART

ART_ART_ART- While all the major art fairs are taking place, the Summer 2014 season is totally covered with Jeff Koons, Picasso and Damien Hirst. Chanel’s cute dresses with paint prints are simply adorable. And Prada? Even more artsy than ever! Chanel, Prabal Gurung, Celine, Prada, Comme des Garcons.

BIKER GIRL
BIKER GIRL- As punk and grunge was hottest last Winter, now it’s all about the biker jacket- looking good with everything. Style your like at Saint Laurent and Louis Vuitton! Saint Laurent, Louis Vuitton, Jean Paul Gaultier.

THINK PINK

THINK PINK- Pink, the Summer classic. Do I have to mention something more? Alexander Wang, Balmain, Giles, Isabel Marant, Jacquemus

FLOWER POWER
FLOWER POWER- “Flowers… how unusual for Summer.” Definitely it is pretty normal for SS, but… Christopher Kane took us to the new level of flower-power. Lets have a peek at an usual boring Biology book, and then at Chris SS14 collection. Love it! Christopher Kane, Dior, Marni, Burberry, Dolce & Gabbana.

TROPICAL

TROPICAL- Well, don’t mix Tropical rain forests with Parisian roses. The tropical trend is more about printed Jumsuits and trousers- just like at Hermes, where Christophe Lemaire took us to a beautiful orangerie… Marc Jacobs, Hermes, No.21, Mary KatrantzouWHITE ON WHITE

WHITE ON WHITE- White this season is very pure and fresh. Beautiful sportwear from Balenciaga and Erdem’s casuality… is so white! Calvin Klein, Balenciaga, Simone Rocha, Erdem.

THE NET FORCE

NET FORCE- Net tops are certainly comfortable and air-permeable. They are mix of sporty chic with elegance… and will look good only without underwear. Just like at Alexander Wang, who styled it with high trousers and socks! Gucci, Alexander Wang, Dior, Anthony Vaccarello.

IN THE GYM

IN THE GYM- Loose it all up because this Summer we’re going out for some jogging! And the best who knows what is best for daily sport, are New Yorkers- Victoria Beckham and Rag & Bone knows how to do a good warm up! Rag & Bone, Victoria Beckham, Jonathan Saunder, Rick Owens, Alexander Wang.

PICNIC PARTY

PICNIC PARTY- Squares, checks, polka dots, spirals… we love all of them. Rodarte, Roland Mouret, Balmain, Derek Lam, Sportmax, 3.1. Philip Lim.

SHINE BRIGHT

SHINE BRIGHT- Shine like a shooting star in one of the hottest looks of the fashion month- Jason Wu, Fendi, Lanvin… The shiny trend is sexy and great for evenings. Or, for a Summer blast at the beach! Jason Wu, Fendi, Lanvin, Gucci, Christopher Kane, Saint Laurent.

MARINE CHIC

MARINE CHIC- Forget stripes while thinking of marine chic. It’s all about ecology and safety these days, so leave your hands in Kenzo’s and Julien David’s hands. This specific trend gives is a little reminder of beach paradise… That’s why we love it! Acne, Kenzo, Julien David, Olympia Le-Tan.

THE END

“Things” We Saw at SS14

1051788As the Summer 2014 fashion month ended, there are new trends, rumours and facetious moments being summoned on different blogs and magazines. But, here, you will find the strangest, scariest, funniest, inhumane, and coolest things of the season! The venues, shoes, beauty and clothes were taken under consideration, so simply enjoy! (Above: The Givenchy venue showing a car crash in the middle of the runway.)
149mtrkMarco Zanini, who had his last season at Rochas, presented an awful collection inspired with… well everything. I was never a fan of Rochas, but this season it was really eerie to watch this. The above shoes with crystal backs and shaggy front are really creeping out. How is it possible to walk in these? C’mon, Celine yellow fluffy heels last Summer were better!
Givenchy-SS14-Paris-Fashion-Week-22Pat McGrath spent 12 hours on doing these masks at Givenchy with 40 other people. Isn’t it a bit of time-consuming beauty trend? It’s definitely art, but surely it won’t rule at DIY blogs this season. You need Pat McGrath to do it, of course.
access1There was something yeti like about Gareth Pugh SS14 wigs.
YVL_5087.450x675 _D7Q0630.450x675Jean Paul Gaultier and Louis Vuitton (whose designer, Marc Jacobs says bye-bye to us after 16 years) are trending this season a very interesting trend- denim worn under skirts. That seems pretty cool… and definitely mixed up!
CNV00011-630x422J.W. Anderson. In other words, nothing here is simple as you may think.
tumblr_mtk23uJZ0K1qzei6po8_1280 57229433C8173D3D2BB591B0F22198_h498_w598_m2_q90_cbVVPLwQKMarc Jacobs in New York was a fashion epoque mash-up. Victorian era mixed with a beach party and Coca-Cola? I totally buy it. And the blond wigs… so cool! Plus, Cara Delevigne, Edie Campbell, Charlotte Free, Sky Ferreira and Georgia May Jagger where there.
PS SS14 1Proenza Schouler presented a beautiful coat made out of… well, a rug? Who cares, it’s still beautiful. And this clutch…
1051316Seriously, is Sonia Rykiel’s weather forecast is so bad for Summer? Are we goings to wear fur scarves around Paris soonly? Hopefully no, but… This fur looks awesome with these boudoir dresses.
m-467-242847-5-iNBBBzDPd3W3Simone Rocha does crocs next season. With PEARLS. The world is near the end.
1051565Comme des Garcons moved the topic of consumism and art… Definitely Rei Kawabuko’s dresses will be hitting the streets of Tokyo next Summer!
DSC_0380.450x675Chanel will have backbags for Summer! The look like taken from thrift shop, but calm down… They are going to cost about 5000 euros each.

blog_RickOwens2951webRick Owens revolutionized the runway with Soul Step group for his Furious collection. Clothes were blah, but the controversy- totally yes!
9801585686_e6cec28f83Christopher Kane has the best collection in London, presented somewhere on the streets. The inspirations with nature, street style and high technology are so OMG, that the collections landed in my “one of the best” list in my heart. Lovee…
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