JPG Gone Sacai. Jean Paul Gaultier AW21 Couture

Luckily for the fashion world, Jean Paul Gaultier is back. And his new, collaborative take on couture makes his brand feel fresh and relevant. Sacai’s Chitose Abe is known for her genius for grafting two different garments together to create a sui generis ensemble, so the idea of grafting her sensibility onto that of Jean Paul Gaultier – a designer that she has long admired – seemed like the basis for an exciting dialogue. It was one that Gaultier himself suggested as part of his elegant disruption strategy following his “retirement” from the conventional fashion system. “It was a very intimate, more friendly proposal,” recalled Abe backstage before the unveiling of her Gaultier takeover, “an invitation to come over for tea. It didn’t feel like two companies coming together, but instead like two people.” Haute couture wasn’t something that Sacai had necessarily thought about before, but she acknowledged that it was “a really spectacular experience. The level of perfection is something that Jean Paul and I share,” she explained, “and it made the process so smooth.” Her couture touches included the hidden luxury of dozens of tiny ruffled flounces buoying up the inside of a skirt, and the stripes of Gaultier’s iconic blue and white matelot sweater worked with insertions of satin organza, or seeming to evaporate into wisps of chiffon. Abe knows Gaultier’s work so well that she admitted she didn’t even have to consult the archives. “I didn’t want to take the archives too literally,” she added, “but to make it Sacai and very, very up to date.” So for look number one, Gaultier’s iconic autumn 1984 conical bra emerged from a deconstructed man’s navy pinstripe suit reimagined as a corset and overskirt, and worn over the tattoo print mesh second-skin pieces that reappeared throughout the collection and represented a collaboration with the tattoo artist Dr. Woo. It helps, of course, that there are some shared codes between Gaultier and Abe that she worked into the collection like a love for tartan, a refined take on punk, the co-opting of traditional men’s suiting fabrics, and the reimagining of the trench coat and Aran sweater. That tartan was redone as a sophisticated assemblage of chiffon pieces worked into a fluttering dress, and those pinstripes were reinvented as a high waisted dress crafted as though it was made from an enormous pair of trousers, the abundance of fabric pleated into fullness. The trench coat was re-conceived as a skirt with the volumes of an Elizabethan farthingale, and samples of different ivory Aran knits were patched onto a chiffon dress. On close inspection, the military braid turned out to have been embroidered from safety pins. Gaultier joined Abe for the finale runway walk and delighted the crowds on the street outside when he joined her on the balcony of his imposing Belle Epoque HQ with the models crowding the windows around them. Can’t wait to see who Jean Paul invites next season.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

The Grand Finale. Jean Paul Gaultier Couture SS20

Euphoric. Bold. Joyous. Fantastic. Pushing boundaries. Forever iconic. That’s Jean Paul Gaultier. Many of the conversations we are having today – about such issues as diversity, gender fluidity, recycling, and sustainability – are built into the Gaultier DNA, and reused by other designer subconsciously. Since his first show in 1976, he has shown pan-generational models of all sizes, genders, and ethnicities on his runway, because they reflected the real-life people on the streets who inspired his style. Rossy De Palma, Blond Ambition Tour cone bras, Dita Von Teese, leather, trompe l’oeil, Beatrice Dalle, France, queer, sailors, sex, body… COUTURE! Although it’s Gaultier’s last fashion show ever, it’s not the end of his career. Can’t wait to see what he’s up to next!

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Throwback Sunday – Jean Paul Gaultier 1994

JEAN-PAUL-GAULTIER-SPRING-1994-RTW-DETAIL-69-STELLA-TENNANT

#ThrobackSunday – spring / summer 1994

This show is such a fundamental base for today’s hype brands like Gypsy Sport, Eckhaus Latta and Pigalle Paris. Back in the years, Jean Paul Gaultier was a real enfant terrible of fashion. One of his first collections, Les Tatouages from 1994, is uptil today a symbol of diversity in fashion. The show was full of unexpected and bewildering references that included men in skirts, hip-hop denim volumes, Joan of Arc–style armor, tattoo trompe l’oeil tops and yes, even corsets. The bold, Indian and African tribal nods played a significant role in this fierce outing of models (for example Stella Tennant and Naomi Campbell, who back then were still the newcomers) and Gaultier’s close friends (like the eccentric and charismatic Rossy De Palma). In my opinion, this collection has not only defined the extravagant chic that Jean Paul Gaultier represents throughout his fashion career – this collection is up-to-date a loud and warm welcome to everybody who wants to be in fashion, of whatever size, skin colour or culture they are.

JEAN-PAUL-GAULTIER-SPRING-1994-RTW-05-JENNY-SHIMIZU

JEAN-PAUL-GAULTIER-SPRING-1994-RTW-10

JEAN-PAUL-GAULTIER-SPRING-1994-RTW-DETAIL-65-ROSSY-DE-PALMA

JEAN-PAUL-GAULTIER-SPRING-1994-RTW-21-KIRSTEN-OWEN

JEAN-PAUL-GAULTIER-SPRING-1994-RTW-43

JEAN-PAUL-GAULTIER-SPRING-1994-RTW-88

JEAN-PAUL-GAULTIER-SPRING-1994-RTW-DETAIL-61-NAOMI-CAMPBELL

JEAN-PAUL-GAULTIER-SPRING-1994-RTW-85-STELLA-TENNANT

JEAN-PAUL-GAULTIER-SPRING-1994-RTW-97

JEAN-PAUL-GAULTIER-SPRING-1994-RTW-84

Jean Paul Gaultier at Grand Palais

DSC01469

Nicknamed “the enfant terrible of fashion” by the press since his first shows in the 70’s, Jean Paul Gaultier is undoubtedly one of the most important and avant-garde fashion designers of recent decades. Made between 1971 and 2015, the examples of his bold creativity have for the most part never been on public display like now at Grand Palais in Paris. His couture and ready-to-wear which always seemed to be different, very early caught on concerns and challenges of a multicultural society, playfully imposing aesthetic codes. More than any other couturier, this exhibition expresses his humanity. The whole event is divided into few “periods” of his career in fashion. The Odyssey refers to what might be named the “founding myths” of Paul’s universe – mariner chic and his signature stripes, mermaids and long sea voyages. Then, Gaultier had his vision of punk, but in a cancan version. Fascinated by the Paris of Belle Epoque, Toulouse Lautrec, the Moulin Rouge and Brassai, the couturier used to mix frivolous and flirty silhouettes with rebellious fashion outings and contoversy-causing way of dressing. From the beginning, the enfant terrible was attracted to unconventional beauties. Muses. Madonna, Kylie Minouge, Beth Ditto, Rossy De Palma and many more women and men who were full of “spark” gave Jean Paul Gaultier inspiration. Even the clothes he designed for Luc Besson’s film, Fifth Element, were designed by him because he felt close to the directors strong vision and imagination. I

n his collections, Gaultier questioned the concepts of gender, nudity and eroticism. While basing his ideas on those, Jean started to use textiles that weren’t used in couture before – latex, leather, fish net, harness and other fabrics that are associated with the word sexy. He offered hypersexualised clothing (like corset dresses) and evoked a new type of romance and fetishism in the world of fashion. In the last section of the exhibition, you can see the Urban Jungle – a fierce dose of colour and references to various ethnic groups. bullfighter bolero jackets, the shtreimel and long coats made of rabbits, gilets from Mongolia, geisha kimonos, flamenco skirts and African masks as the new bride alternative. And all of that modified with his long-time signatures – corset silhouettes and intense emphasis on details. Seeing all of these stages of Gaultier’s career seemed like a dream-come-true. And having a chance to observe and have a look at all those clothes, scenarios and extravagance felt quite insane, but great.

DSC01471

DSC01452

DSC01453

8-Kylie-Minogue-The-Virgin-with-the-Serpents.-Aureole-Gown-Virgins-or-Madonnas-collection.-The-Fashion-World-of-Jean-Paul-Gaultier1

DSC01464

DSC01480

tumblr_mitlikorTU1qcxpboo1_500

DSC01455

DSC01495

DSC01496

prev__bd4c206bbf0e2ce93f4d443862c0c286.mog.img.tmp

DSC01454

DSC01461

DSC01500

1600-HELENA-AUG-1994-VOGUE-PARIS-VOGUESPIRIT-SCAN5

DSC01473

DSC01472

DSC01491

jpg-vogue-fr

DSC01466

DSC01456

DSC01493

mondino_madonna_1990-1

DSC01475

TREND REPORT SS14

TREND REPORT

 Definitely, November is the right time to get to know closer the hottest trends from SS14 runways. In this exclusive guide to the new season, you will find lots of inspirations, new designers and the most coolest styles and looks of Summer 2014. From the gold skirts to net tops, and from tribal inspirations to modern art, there is no way to miss this amazing season!

GOLD RUSH

GOLD RUSH- the golden polished skirts and dresses are definitely not only classics of Summer wardrobe, but also a must have this season. Proenza Schouler, Dries Van Noten, Haider Ackermann, Creatures of The Wind, Altuzarra.

RED WINE

RED WINE- The colour of burgundy seems to be a pretty heavy colour for Summer- but no worries, Marc Jacobs and Margiela made it top listers, so why not give it a try? Maison Martin Margiela, Givenchy, Proenza Schouler, Marc Jacobs.

TRIBE ATTACK

TRIBE ATTACK- Designers of SS14 were really inspired with African and South American tribes. Alexander McQueen show took us to a futuristic Masai village, were women wear feathers, reds and helmets; Valentino however visited South American major places like Incan and Aztec empires, plus having a peek at Mexico and Guatemala… Valentino, Givenchy, Alexander McQueen, Junya Watanabe.

ART-ART-ART

ART_ART_ART- While all the major art fairs are taking place, the Summer 2014 season is totally covered with Jeff Koons, Picasso and Damien Hirst. Chanel’s cute dresses with paint prints are simply adorable. And Prada? Even more artsy than ever! Chanel, Prabal Gurung, Celine, Prada, Comme des Garcons.

BIKER GIRL
BIKER GIRL- As punk and grunge was hottest last Winter, now it’s all about the biker jacket- looking good with everything. Style your like at Saint Laurent and Louis Vuitton! Saint Laurent, Louis Vuitton, Jean Paul Gaultier.

THINK PINK

THINK PINK- Pink, the Summer classic. Do I have to mention something more? Alexander Wang, Balmain, Giles, Isabel Marant, Jacquemus

FLOWER POWER
FLOWER POWER- “Flowers… how unusual for Summer.” Definitely it is pretty normal for SS, but… Christopher Kane took us to the new level of flower-power. Lets have a peek at an usual boring Biology book, and then at Chris SS14 collection. Love it! Christopher Kane, Dior, Marni, Burberry, Dolce & Gabbana.

TROPICAL

TROPICAL- Well, don’t mix Tropical rain forests with Parisian roses. The tropical trend is more about printed Jumsuits and trousers- just like at Hermes, where Christophe Lemaire took us to a beautiful orangerie… Marc Jacobs, Hermes, No.21, Mary KatrantzouWHITE ON WHITE

WHITE ON WHITE- White this season is very pure and fresh. Beautiful sportwear from Balenciaga and Erdem’s casuality… is so white! Calvin Klein, Balenciaga, Simone Rocha, Erdem.

THE NET FORCE

NET FORCE- Net tops are certainly comfortable and air-permeable. They are mix of sporty chic with elegance… and will look good only without underwear. Just like at Alexander Wang, who styled it with high trousers and socks! Gucci, Alexander Wang, Dior, Anthony Vaccarello.

IN THE GYM

IN THE GYM- Loose it all up because this Summer we’re going out for some jogging! And the best who knows what is best for daily sport, are New Yorkers- Victoria Beckham and Rag & Bone knows how to do a good warm up! Rag & Bone, Victoria Beckham, Jonathan Saunder, Rick Owens, Alexander Wang.

PICNIC PARTY

PICNIC PARTY- Squares, checks, polka dots, spirals… we love all of them. Rodarte, Roland Mouret, Balmain, Derek Lam, Sportmax, 3.1. Philip Lim.

SHINE BRIGHT

SHINE BRIGHT- Shine like a shooting star in one of the hottest looks of the fashion month- Jason Wu, Fendi, Lanvin… The shiny trend is sexy and great for evenings. Or, for a Summer blast at the beach! Jason Wu, Fendi, Lanvin, Gucci, Christopher Kane, Saint Laurent.

MARINE CHIC

MARINE CHIC- Forget stripes while thinking of marine chic. It’s all about ecology and safety these days, so leave your hands in Kenzo’s and Julien David’s hands. This specific trend gives is a little reminder of beach paradise… That’s why we love it! Acne, Kenzo, Julien David, Olympia Le-Tan.

THE END