Craft. Jil Sander SS20

Lucie and Luke Meier have already proven throughout their time at Jil Sander that its more than a white shirt and a pair of black pants to them. Their vision of the brand is all about soft, tender, warm minimalism with a bit of edginess. For springs-summer 2020, the couple decided to experiment with craftsmanship, which had its ups and downs in the collection. The over-sized tailoring, pleated dresses and boxy shirt printed with an abstract landscape were the most convincing to me, while being the least risky in the line-up. Long silk tunics embroidered with sequins in the shapes of birds over narrow trousers was my another favourite. However, the natural raffia detailing that dominated the last looks felt unneeded, even forced, and it obscured the gorgeous, flowing silhouettes the Meiers are so good at.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.