HC – Chanel, Bouchra Jarrar & Margiela SS16

January 30, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Chanel

Karl Lagerfeld presented a utopian vision of his ecological world – a wooden, sauna-like pavilion was built inside Grand Palais, and the catwalk was cultivated with grass. The collection was indeed all about organic textiles. The geometric lace gown, which was worn as a wedding dress by Mica Arganaraz, is actually embroidered with such materials as wood shavings, breads, rhinestones and chiffon. Moreover, it’s entirely “made from wild cotton” and as the designer said “this is high-fashion ecology. It must not look like some sloppy demonstration!” To make it even more sustainable, all the wedges were made of cork, while the signature Coco Chanel bouclé jackets had the illusion of a bark texture. But let’s not fool ourselves – this collection is a bit like the politically labeled SS15 ready-to-wear outing, where the models pretended to demonstrate women’s rights with their Chanel banners and 3000 euros bags. In case of this couture collection, the significant topic of ecology feels like a one-season, shallow trend. Last season Lagerfeld was over the top with neoprene, a textile which can’t be obtained in any possible, biodegradable nor organic way. So doing an eco collection feels like an idea which came out of the blue.

Bouchra Jarrar

The French designer, Bouchra Jarrar, reinteprets couture each season, making it look effortless (and usually too ready-to-war). But whatever they say, her elegant and calm collections ooze with Parisian chic. For spring-summer 2016, Jarrar focued on the pants, which are surely the most sleek and well-tailored of all. The coats with fur collars make me drool up to now, while the delicate velvet dresses in ecru are all about the toned, couture details.

Maison Margiela

“Is haute couture falling apart? No, it’s just Maison Margiela by John Galliano”. I agree with you, Suzy Menkes. Margiela under Galliano‘s wings starts to look like a low-budget sham of luxurious textiles which are waisted on an “artisanal” drama. The recent collection is a mess and it’s not an art expression. Martin Margiela was known for his signature clothes deconstruction and the “out of the studio” effect, where everything felt raw and unfinished. But in John’s hands, it all looks like a “fashion” junk.

The New Year Dress

December 29, 2015December 29, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

The most important question of the year appears – which dress should you were for the New Year Eve? Go for non-chalance or simplicity this time? Be the Diana Ross of the night or a femme fatale, let’s say, like the intriguing Mata Hari? Or is the dress-code free for interpretation? Here is the subjective selection of the fantasy dresses you might wear (or dream to wear) on the 31st of December!

Dior spring-summer 1998 couture

Not long after John Galliano’s arrival at Dior, the fashion crowd discovered the designer’s famous over-the-top style – staged in Paris’ Opera Garnier, the fashion show stunned everybody with the backless gowns in Art Nouveau prints, mink coats, avant-garde hats and of course, the gold-thread embroidered Marie Antoinette ball dress. A masterpiece which impresses me until now.

Celine autumn-winter 2013

For those who enjoy comfort and effortless elegance – Phoebe Philo’s chic outing at Celine was all about modern silhouettes and flattering shapes. The outfit with a shoulder exposing top, a midi-lenght skirt and a pillow clutch might be just the right choice for a lounge party with fancy canapés.

Alaia autumn-winter 1991

“Animal magnetism” is how Azzedine Alaia described his collection back in 1991. Indeed, the leopard-print knit dress worn by Claudia Schiffer was all about Parisian sex-appeal. A sure take on a Pink Panther themed party.

Lanvin spring-summer 2016

The last collection designed by Alber Elbaz for Lanvin was all about his signature, over-sized dresses. The one above, all in burgundy and red sequins stole my heart during the fashion week. And the silk scarf, which was worn by the model in a slouchy way gave the overall effect of “my New Eve will be spent with the person I love the most” statement.

Yohji Yamamoto spring-summer 1999

When Malgosia Bela presented this parachute, white dress at Yohji Yamamoto’s show at the end of the last decade, everybody agreed – a white dress is not only worn to a wedding ceremony. I can guarantee you that if you appear in this voluminous piece at the newly opened gourmet restaurant during the New Year Eve – well, then the dinner is yours.

Rochas pre-fall 2016

A bit dramatic, yet minimal – the Rochas maxi-dress styled with a fur stole is Alessandro Dell AcQua’s perfect tip for a last-minute New-Year-new-you-look.

Gucci spring-summer 2016

Alessandro Michele can even make a track suit look brilliant for this special occasion – it’s all about a fair dose of hand-painted florals, a sheer, silk pussy-bow shirt and a pair of killer-hill stilettos. Also, there is a variety of embroidered dresses with ruffles and crotchet jumpsuits – true, these are eclectic and eccentric looks, but there is only one New Year Eve per year!

Alexander McQueen autumn-winter 2010

The aristocratic, meticulously embroidered gown worn with a scarlet red cape – and all the attention is on you. This is how a Royal-looking, custom-made queen dress should look like. I confess that when I examined McQueen’s last collection, which he had finished designing just few days before his tragic death, tears welled up in my eyes. Such a genius is sorely missed.

Haider Ackermann spring-summer 2011

If you are this type of person, who wants to show some skin to the world, then please, please, please – don’t take a Kardashian-esque Balmain dress. Go for this fabulous, yellow Haider Ackermann dress with a leg-exposing cut. I know, it looks too good to be true. But it’s even more than Insta-perfect.

Rosie Assoulin resort 2015

And of course, I cannot not take under consideration Rosie Assoulin’s bold dresses and skirts. These nutritious and fresh-like-an-orange looks from her resort 2015 look-book are flawless, and in a very #IWokeUpLikeThis manner. Not that I am the biggest fan of Beyonce – but I think the word and the hashtag of 2015 fit Rosie’s eveningwear style… on point.

So, obviously you already have a clear vision of your New Year eve outfit, don’t you?

Ridiculous. Maison Margiela SS16

October 3, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

After few collections presented by John Galliano for Maison Margiela, I have a clear opinion on him – he is not the same Galliano we knew at Dior. The spirit of that Galliano seems to be tamed by the idea of conceptualism that is constantly imposed by Margiela’s codes. It’s visible he tries hard to make Maison Margiela an enigmatic and elusive brand – but his other side of a show-man just doesn’t let it go. Drama queen dresses, transparent baggy dresses, bee-hive hairstyles… even the artisanal textiles he uses don’t look high-end, but rather like from one of London’s fashion student graduation collection. Also, the whole idea of gender-fusing seems to be not that fresh as Galliano and Margiela’s studio thought when the did the show’s casting. Men wearing fish-net tops and high-waisted skirts? So Eckhaus Latta. And, of course, the most ridiculous thing about the entire collection – the bags tied with obi knots to the model’s back. When you don’t have any other idea how to make a show amusing, you do this type of thing. And call it pret-a-couture or something alike.

HC – Mash Up. Maison Margiela AW15

July 9, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

I have very mixed feelings about John Galliano designing for Maison Margiela. His first haute couture collection was warmly welcomed, but partly because it was his debut after a long period of pause; his AW15 ready-to-wear was all about eccentric ladies which couldn’t be us dramatic as they wanted to be – in other words, this collection felt tamed and unnecessarily too calm, like if the designer was scared to shock. And now, as we already got used to Galliano at Margiela, its time for a honest opinion about this case. The new haute couture presented yesterday in Paris looked like a collection designed by a young fashion student who sewed it just before the dead-line, having in mind a chaotic mood-board without any sensible idea. Minimal silhouettes (which totally don’t match John’s adoration to opulence), glitter scattered all over the mini-dresses, a bit of tapestry embellished onto the capes and a big, white garbage bag instead of a beautiful bridal dress. And additionally the idea of Japanese sharpness which was suddenly presented in form of an obi-belted coat. It utterly felt like Galliano didn’t have any precise idea for this season and for this collection. Showing off trashy styling, shoes made for “breaking your legs” and telling people that its all so into Martin Margiela’s spirit makes me feel hurt. I love Martin Margiela as Martin Margiela and I used to love John Galliano, to sum it up.

Men’s – Raw Elegance. Maison Margiela SS16

June 27, 2015January 6, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

That’s funny. John Galliano is the creative director of Maison Margiela, but officially he did not design the Resort collection you have seen earlier this week, and the men’s SS16 which is here. He only does women’s ready-to-wear and couture for this Parisian, ex-avantgarde house. And that is solidly visible by comparing these two collections to woman’s AW15, the latest creation of Galliano. The Margiela Resort for 2016 was a very commercial collection; the menswear line is all about raw elegance. As usually, chaotically painted vests, sheer tops with decoupage covering the chests and voluminous overalls. This collection is precisely the same thing that we saw last season… and that makes me mad because men’s Margiela used to excite me. And now the Maison Margiela studio plays it safe to keep up with the sales.