Raw Emotional State. Eckhaus Latta AW23

Jon Gries – aka The White Lotus‘ Greg – cameo in Eckhaus Latta‘s autumn-winter 2023 fashion show caused a social media hysteria. Is this how Greg lives his life after Tanya’s death on that unfortunate boat trip, walking the runway for New York’s coolest designers and just minding his own business wearing a chunky knitted sweater and a pair of very good-looking linen cargo pants? Nobody ever predicted Greg would become a fashion darling. Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta know a thing about creating fashion moments, without ever ignoring the clothes and their mind-blowing execution. The new collection came from a raw emotional state, and you could tell that. Jersey dresses, tops, and jackets had inside-out seams that were left unfinished to create little horizontal slashes across the body; layered black mesh dresses and shirts made from cotton had a coarser, more natural hand that felt less plastic-y against the body. Tops made from shearling were left unfinished to show their beauty in a natural state. “This season there was a want for a certain kind of hardness,” Eckhaus said. “There’s a kind of moodiness, not in a pessimistic way, but maybe on edge, an uneasy feeling that we are curious to play with,” Latta continued. The clothes felt urgent. This was a collection about protection, defiance, and most importantly, control, but as the show progressed, the color palette began shifting away from darkness. A moss green overcoat gave way to a brown and green pieced shearling top worn with a pair of wide leg jeans with painted stripes in shades of green, blue, orange and black, and shoes decked out in primary colors. A gorgeous pink oversized bomber jacket was hand knit in Bolivia and paired with a wide wale corduroy skirt of the same shade that zipped off at the front and back. “We’re thinking of things that come together and come apart, and letting things be mutable as garments,” Eckhaus said. The journey towards the light continued with a natural linen button down tucked into a matching wrap skirt of asymmetrical length. Some of the best looks in the collection came out towards the end, like the pieces made from a sort of coated gray vinyl which takes on a marbleized effect through regular wear and tear. That was turned into dresses and skirts and, most winningly, a really great pair of jeans. Each season, Eckhaus Latta includes a poem or a text in their show notes. This season’s ended with “Be Fluidly Brutal and Find God.” Interpret it the way you feel like it.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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