Information Orgy. Loewe SS16

October 6, 2015August 21, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Loewe was like a wardrobe of an extraordinary lady who lived in the 60’s, 70’s and 80’s – you can literally find everything in there, from plexi rain-coats and logo-mania trousers to jewellery souvenirs she brought from her exotic travels and cat-loving prints. In other words, Jonathan Anderson let his imagination take over the reigns this season, creating a collection that feels like a cabinet de curiosites of different ideas, references and objects. The effect? I am appealed to that modernistic eclecticism, but the transparent pieces don’t amuse me. Together with the mirror-cracked dresses and fancy logos, the plastic part makes it all a mishmash, that isn’t fluent. Or maybe it wasn’t intended to be fluent at all? The chaotic manner of the collection was described by the designer as “an orgy of information” – well, it surely had to say a lot about Jonathan’s current obsessions.

Photography by Virginie Khateeb

Men’s – Need For Speed. Loewe SS16

June 28, 2015January 6, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Jonathan Anderson definitely had a blast during his last trip to Asia. In a Hong Kong antique shop, he found an early 18th-century screen from Japan—koi jumping over waves—that he thought looked so modern, it influenced him and his next collection. Loewe SS16 came from attempts of gathering something old and something new – tradition, culture and innovation, technology. That’s why there was a fuse of leather, which is Loewe’s heritage, and manga prints which are usually thought of as futuristic. But also, a topic of fast cars was moved and that is clearly visible on the bags and trousers. Not everything is totally clear in here, but with this collection Anderson proves he is the designer of tomorrow – looking forward to the following day, but not forgetting about the past.

Arty Uniform. JW Anderson Resort’16

June 11, 2015June 11, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Although J.W. Anderson is recognised as an avant-garde designer, this time the spotlight was stolen by the ruffled shoes. In polished gold, silver and black, the feminised cowboy boots looked peculiar, but from the other side desirable. If talking of the clothes – eclecticism rules. Flower prints, denim, leather, flashy colours and arty embroideries created a pretty chaotic cocktail. Also, a great surprise was seeing ultra-naive polka dots on the dresses – these looked much better at Anderson’s rather than at Dolce & Gabbana. Full of contradictions, the collection had a typically unsettling thing about it – maybe because it was so eccentric in its wearability? Or maybe because it wasn’t planned to be wearable? Jonathan Anderson will never stop making me confused about his fashion.

Über 80’s. JW Anderson AW15

February 22, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Two years ago, I would never thought that Jonathan Anderson, the minimal kid from the block, will go 80’s. This period has it’s echo in previous collections, but never so much as in AW15. Corduroy trousers, velvet tops, über-80’s prints, and eccentric earring – it all makes me think about those ladies which sit and gossip about everyone at the market. The shoes seem to be terrific, too – their exggerated buckles and aim to “shorten” the legs are so “un-fashionable”. This collection in overall is not a fashionable one. J.W. Anderson simply showed an ironic, slightly satiric point of view on people, which try to look their best and at the same time look super cheesy. Additionally, the cheesy way of dressing appeared in the 80’s – so now everything is clear.

But is cheesy the new chic? J.W. Anderson possibly imposes an old new movement in fashion. This “thing” is surely going to be a hot topic for fashion journalists.