American Classic. Altuzarra AW26

This season, Joseph Altuzarra went full Ralph Lauren. Plaid maxi skirts, shearling bombers, chunky knits, earthy tones – even heirloom antique jewelry from De Vera called to mind Ralph’s signature turquoises and vintage silvers. Altuzarra has been on the market for nearly two decades now, which already positions the brand as something of an American classic. It was intriguing, then, to see the designer send his uptown woman out for a horseback ride. And those flared skirts in the finale? I’m very much here for more of that bravado from Altuzarra – perhaps with fewer of the uncharismatic, foulard-like dresses he so stubbornly insists on revisiting each season.

ED’s SELECTION:



Altuzarra Cecie Fair Isle Wool-blend Turtleneck Sweater



Altuzarra Fragolina Draped Broderie Anglaise-paneled Silk-satin Midi Dress



Altuzarra Kiddo Gathered Silk Tapered Pants



Altuzarra Llewellyn Wool Jacket



Altuzarra Dash Pleated Cotton-twill Barrel-leg Pants



Altuzarra Alida Ruffled Silk-chiffon Blouse

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Socialite. Altuzarra SS26

Altuzarra’s (very autumnal) spring–summer 2026 collection centered on charming details, executed in a surreal, trompe-l’œil manner. A stole appeared as an illustration of bird wings encircling the neckline; a blazer’s pockets were appliquéd with black and red feathers, accentuating the waist and hips; dresses were not printed but patched with florals. Yet nothing about these wardrobe enhancements felt overly on the nose. The line-up is one that New York’s Swans – socialites like C.Z. Guest or Lee Radziwill – would surely embrace for its deft balance of day-to-evening sophistication. Balloon pants, Joseph Altuzarra’s recurring obsession, returned better than ever. For several seasons now, the designer has been channeling an elegance that feels both authentic and substantial.

ED’s SELECTION:

Altuzarra Dash Pleated Cotton-twill Barrel-leg Pants


Altuzarra Maury Shearling Jacket


Altuzarra Lennon Strapless Ribbed-knit Bustier Top


Altuzarra Drina Stretch-velvet Midi Dress


Altuzarra Origami Mini Fringed Suede Shoulder Bag

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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NET-A-PORTER Limited

Women Of Flesh & Bone. Altuzarra AW25

Joseph Altuzarra is in his most delicious creative era… ever. Forget collections inspired with sunny, far-fetched destinations or film titles – thematic line-ups that (over)defined Altuzarra for over a decade. The New York-based designer now finds interest in personalities. Real ones. His latest outing, presented in his chic Woolworth Building headquarters, was dedicated to women of the Big Apple. The Lee Radziwills and Sarah Jessica Parkers, the Edie Sedgwicks and Ladies of Madison Avenue. Women of flesh-and-bone, who equally love a proper evening dress with a fringed big hat and a shaggy shearling coat worn as a dress, styled with heels and tights only. But if I had to compare this collection to a fictional persona, I would pick Nicole Kidman’s phenomenal portrayal of Babygirl‘s Romy – a New York businesswoman on a quest of self-discovery.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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NET-A-PORTER Limited

New York Chic. Altuzarra AW24

Altuzarra celebrates 15 years of business, quite a milestone for even the most thriving fashion brands in New York. Personally, I think this last year was a sensational moment in Joseph Altuzarra‘s career: collection after collection, he delivered line-ups that aren’t only chic, but very, very New York. His autumn-winter 2024 offering ranks very high in the shapeless blur of other collections we’ve seen this week. The designer brought together a group of about 100 guests at his Woolworth Building for a salon-style presentation. His daughter sat on his mother’s lap, and there were no celebrities or influencers in the room – rather editors, journalists and buyers. This already felt like a new direction. “I worked on this collection in a different way,” Altuzarra said at a preview. “It wasn’t as much about stories and much more about pieces that I felt interested in developing.” Like a sweeping mac with a storm flap back lifted directly from his own life. Altuzarra has started showjumping competitively out on Long Island, where he and his husband have a home; later on in the collection, a pair of silk twill sundresses featured abstract prints that looked equestrian in nature. Amidst the pictures of horse girls on the moodboard were Tamara de Lempicka paintings that may have inspired a crystal and lace flapper-ish slip dress. Illustrations of clowns in Pierrot ruffs definitely influenced the frilled collars and cuffs on knits and blouses, which were often topped by more masculine pieces, like a peacoat, or a neatly tailored blazer. This collection takes Altuzarra to a new territory, one he definitely should keep on exploring in the next seasons.

How about a couple of Altuzarra essentials?

ED’s SELECTION:


Sif Pleated Polka-dot Crepe De Chine Maxi Skirt



Booth Cable-knit Turtleneck Sweater



Karina Gathered Satin Midi Skirt



Kitriani Dyed Peplum Jacket with Smocked Waist



Fannie Midi Skirt with Ruffle Trim



Adams Tailored Wool Coat

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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NET-A-PORTER Limited

Twisted Lady. Altuzarra SS24

Second season in a row, Joseph Altuzarra delivers one of the best collections of New York Fashion Week. His winter offering was a refined look-back at his signature, urban elegance; for spring-summer 2024, the designer nods to Roman Polanski’s Rosemary’s Baby and Miuccia Prada’s style, an aesthetically-ecstatic combination of references. The film’s haunting undercurrents felt close to the surface of Altuzarra season, with tulle veils and matching 1960s babydoll dresses and the she’s-come-undone details, like the crushed textures of everything from slipdresses to A-line coats, gauzy organza slips peeking out from underneath the hems of pencil skirts, and the DIY-ish embroideries on other skirts and dresses. Miuccia’s spirit could be perceived all over the bourgeois lady-likeness, which is never obvious; there’s always a sexual tension behind it. To tempt the clients who want to play around with uptown sexiness, Altuzarra had satin coats in red, butter yellow, and ivory that were A-line and somewhat oversized, “almost as if you took a doll coat from the ’60s and blew it up a little bit,” and a strapless polka dot trapeze dress straight out of 1950s couture. There was also a pair of gowns, one black with thin straps, and the other a white tank style, that looked neither twisted, nor bourgeois; they were simply striking.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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NET-A-PORTER Limited