Layers. Victoria Beckham SS23

October 4, 2022 | Design & Culture by Ed

Spring-summer 2023 collection was Victoria Beckham‘s runway debut in Paris. But also, it was one of the least consistent offerings coming from the designer. This makes me wonder: for whom is this brand for at that very moment? And what does it really stand for? The collection wasn’t bad, but it felt like it tried to check all the current trends. The first look: Rianne Van Rompaey in a medical-pink rigorous, ankle-length dress sheathed over her body, its sleeves slit to the shoulder, its waist stitched at the front and pulled apart with strict ruching. Beckham underpinned it with opera gloves in monogrammed lace the color of the model’s skin, matching tights, and high satin heels with almond-shaped toes. It was pretty twisted, but glamorous. The designer could stay in the orbit of this look. But she decided to experiment further. Draped dresses (some seedily worn over latex tights), deconstructed cami dresses that looked as if they were about to slip off the body, and perversely bias-cut fishtail gowns in more medical pastels. A black dress was adorned in slashes as if it had been clawed into. Next to coats with edges cut to reveal their construction and trompe l’oeil leather jackets with the imprint of lapels, tailored jackets had been deconstructed at the back and reduced to their core frame, exposing the naked body (very Peter Do). Each look put separately seemed intriguing, but in overall, the line-up needed a tighter edit.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Au Revoir. Louis Vuitton SS14

October 2, 2013 | Design & Culture by Ed

I was crying during the show! That was so, so horrifying that Marc Jacobs is out of Louis Vuitton and that it was his last collection for this luxurious fashion house from Paris. Will somebody be better than this American in Paris? Surely, these were fantastic years with Jacobs- Night Porter, geometrical shapes, boudoir, trains, grunge, African tribal inspirations… These were just few of things that were accompanying us together with Jacobs. It will be very sad for now. But, about the collection now. It was like a mix of everything that Marc did for LV. The show was presented in gothic venue with a dark fountain, victorian buildings and a grand clock that gave a dramatic twist to the collection. Edie Campbell, the muse of Marc Jacobs, opened the collection in an amazing logo body, having chains and a massive feather decoration on head. The next models (a lot of famous faces!) were also dresses in Victorian inspired way- detailed gowns, feather hats and… yes, denim jeans that was a surprise. That looked epic. C’mon, only MJ could mix a Victorian dress with jeans. And that’s why my heart will always have a place for Marc Jacobs collection. Even if they will be a fail.

Trompe l’Oeil. MMM SS14

September 28, 2013 | Design & Culture by Ed

That was one of the best Maison Martin Margiela collection for about three years! It was so Margiela… from unknown reasons, Martin Margiela house got a bit boring for few seasons- there was no amazement. But for Summer 2014 we have a real tromple l’oeil greatness. The collection was mostly kept in bordeaux that is a pretty heavy colour for Summer and it had every look having something… mysterious. The pretty usual sport styled clothing was much more changed into luxury with beautiful sequins, jewels and details, that reminded some kind of French Chateaux treasures. And the shoes were a bit psycho- it had it’s heel cut out in the middle, making it a stiletto with two heels… This is a very Margiela world, that is simply beautiful and not trivial. I love it!

Disco Party. Lanvin SS14

September 27, 2013 | Design & Culture by Ed

That was a very classical Lanvin collection- dresses, jackets, t-shirts with skirts- ant that all in energetic metallic fabrics! Well, that was surely not the best Lanvin, but it wasn’t bad. I loved the Great Gatsby inspired dresses- in reality, the collection was like a loud party under Jay Gatsby’s roof. Everything was kitschy and full of splendour… and what a bit suprised me, pretty warm as for Summer. But still, the collection was nothing spectacural, although cool. Very Lanvin!

Weird Party. Marc Jacobs SS14

September 13, 2013 | Design & Culture by Ed

“It’s more of a weird frat party, Burning Man, shores-of-Gotham City sort of beach scene. It’s a lovely nightmare, or it was for me anyway.” And this, more interestingly: “I didn’t want the cliché of Spring and Summer, I wanted it to be about girls who have no problem coming to work in a Victorian gown and Birkenstocks” said Marc Jacobs about his SS14 collection that with grace closed the New York Fashion Week. The venue was amazing- a huge, huge place, that reminded of something like a beach apocalypse- beach chairs, towels, sand, trees, cigarettes were lying in chaos everywhere. The models (the set of them was really impressive) were for example Cara Delevigne who flew straight from London through Atlantic to walk the runway for Marc and comeback on London Fashion Week… Sky Ferreira (!!!), Edie Campbell, Lily Mcmenamy, Georgia May Jagger and Hanne Gaby were also here. Coming back to collection, Marc Jacobs broke all the rules of the SS14 but in a good way- when everybody were into pure minimalism and pale clothes, MJ slapped it, with a print, embroidery and colour bomb- in a much darker colour than I expected. The clothes were inpired with Victorian era, widow weeds and some 21st century- birkenstocks again rocked the runway just like funny backpack totes! Definitely, that was one of these “weird” parties I would love to come…