Men’s – Spongy Denim. Julien David AW16

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Julien David never, but never dissapoints to deliver the most exciting fabrics and textures for his menswear collections. Spongy denim. Do you feel it? ‘Cause I do. Utilitarian jump-suits, blazers, pants, coats – I want to have nearly every single piece from autumn-winter 2016 collection, made of this fabulously durable, warp-faced cotton textile. Moreover, this collection is inspired with Akira, a dystopian anime film from 1988, set in futuristic Tokyo. No wonder why Japan, and its modernistic approach, is constantly appearing on Julien’s mind – all of his clothes, for both men and women, are manufactured in Japan. Except the sharp, aluminum spikes on models’ heads, the collection didn’t directly show the stereotypical, bold nature of anime characters; to a big extend, it was all about a comforting neutrality. And whatever they say about the prosperity and functionality of high-tech textiles, David believes denim will still rule in the future.

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Neo-Nostalgia. Julien David Pre-Fall’16

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Nostalgia is having a moment lately in the fashion industry – after Alessandro Michele’s vintage affair at Gucci, the old has never been so… new. And Julien David proves this in his pre-fall 2016 collection for his eponymous, made in Japan label. The emerald green, granny shirts and skirts had a lot to do with a wardrobe, which suddenly revived from few decades ago; the supposedly Star Wars inspired, over-sized t-shirt is a nod to thrift-shop-born, 90’s style – in other words Julien looks back at the decades with a 21st century glance. Easier, street-style ready sweat-shirts or affordable, white shirts were spiced up with elongated, buckled belts. The French designer’s collections are edgy, but always comfortable – take a look at this balloon-like, voluminous coat – modern, but with a appealing soigné vibe. Lastly, the shoes. Neon-shaded, chunky club footed clobs. I bet the fans of Julien David’s vision will do anything for these orthopedic dreams. Just like for this laid-back pre-fall update.

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France to Japan and Back. Julien David SS16

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Julien David celebrates his 10th womenswear fashion show – and this is a major reason to look back at label’s philosophy. The eponymous label, which is designed in Paris and manufactured in Japan, is made for a specific type of customers – both women and men – who love unique clothes with apparel feeling. Seven years after launching, he has 100 stockists and says that 40 percent of his sales come from the country in which his clothes are made.

The spring-summer 2016 collection is a smart combination of both Western and Eastern cultures. But you won’t find kimonos in this collection – Julien studied closely his favourite textiles coming from France and Japan, and thought how to create the wardrobe which is based on his European and Asian clients’ style. There was a lot of denim – in jumpsuits, carpenter coats and high-waisted stitched jeans. Nîmes, France, is from where the most soft cotton twill originated – while in Japan, the best quality denim is produced (not USA, as you might think). Also, very feminine, Brigitte Bardot silhouettes appeared, and super kawaii mini-skirts from Harajuku gave a girlie feeling. But in reality the sunflower print stole my heart. The French rural life… Oui!

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Men’s – The Masked Man. Julien David SS16

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The embroidered masks seen during Julien David‘s shows aimed to neutralise the models and their characters, so the whole spotlight would be stolen by the clothes. In fact, that worked! David presented fabrications, such as the crinkled natural wool suiting that opened the show; the material reminded cracked asphalt in gray and rice paper in white. A paraffin-coated lyocell rayon became his dedicated parka material, which looked even more genuine. The white, corduroy suite looks simultaneously elegant and effortlessly modern. David’s amazing usage of textiles is always mind-blowing. While the styling and the clothes themselves make me drool, the wide-leg cropped pants are my definitive favourites!

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