1930’s Berlin. Erdem AW22

For autumn-winter 2022, Erdem Moralioglu imagined the night lives of four extraordinary women from Berlin’s 1930s arts scene. As silence fell upon a black box inside the Sadler’s Wells, a pianist took to a grand piano and began to play a dramatic solo. From the ceiling, pillars of dusty spotlights shot through the blackened-out room as Erdem’s austere, androgynous, unsettling – and totally beautiful – collection meandered around the arena. “I liked the idea that it was a club, and maybe they were on their way out, like ghosts. It’s the end of the night and they’re trailing away…” he said backstage, before detailing the historical influence that inspired the collection. Following the launch of his second men’s collection in January, Moralioglu wasn’t done exploring its muse, the photographer Madame d’Ora, who embodied the free and alternative spirit of 1930s’ Berlin in a time of political unrest. Imagining how her nightlife might have been, he found another four muses to join her: the painters Jeanne Mammen and Elfriede Lohse-Wächtler, and the dancers Anita Berber and Valeska Gert, who were all contemporaries of d’Ora and personified the cross-dressing, sexually ambiguity, and liberated identities of the time. “There was something about the effect of doing menswear, and the exercise of adding that masculinity into the collection, and maybe thinking of the extremes of femininity and masculinity mixed together,” Moralioglu explained, using Karen Elson’s opening look of a floral-embroidered black men’s coat with a black sequined evening scarf and big leather boots as an illustration of his intentions. It set a muted and reduced mood for the collection, which was mesmerising through an Erdem lens.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Coolest Brits of 2013

zdjęcie 1-kopia 2 Here is one in a year, super official and fashionable agenda of the coolest British Fashion people of the year! All photographs are by great Tim Walker for Vogue UK December… with the new Vogue editor, sexiest and best Kate Moss!zdjęcie 1-kopia 5After Cara we’ve got Edie. Edie Campbell. She is cool, isn’t she?zdjęcie 4-kopia 5The duo of the London fashion scene, Meadham & Kirchhoff. zdjęcie 5-kopia 5zdjęcie 2-kopia 6CHRISTOPHER KANE!!!zdjęcie 2-kopiaMalaika Firth, model who covered Prada last Winter. She’s so cartoon like!zdjęcie 2-kopia 7Simone Rocha, the candy-bubble designer!zdjęcie 1-kopia 6Gareth Pugh, the darkest (and most creative) young talent under the sun (of Britain).zdjęcie 4-kopia 4zdjęcie 3-kopia 7Sam Rollinson. The Model.zdjęcie 1-kopia 4Nick Knight, the elegance is written in his name.zdjęcie 5-kopiazdjęcie 4-kopiaJ.W. Anderson, the psycho designer who will design for Loewe. That mean a next revolution!zdjęcie 2-kopia 3She looks pretty!zdjęcie 3-kopia 3zdjęcie 5-kopia 3zdjęcie 3-kopia 6Icon of Scottish fashion. Stella Tennant.zdjęcie 2-kopia 5Katie Grand, the editor of LOVE. LOVE, LOVE, LOVE.zdjęcie 4-kopia 3zdjęcie 5-kopia 4Stephen Jones, the famous miliner and editor.zdjęcie 3-kopia 5And Karen Elson. The girl that made the year.

Sirens. Jason Wu SS14

Slide1-kopiaFor the moment, Jason Wu is my favourite collection from New York Fashion Week! With Karen Elson opening the show and some golde modern lamps around the runway, it all felt so silent and peaceful… The first looks, kept in beige shades, were all about mixing masculine tailorship with feminine cuts. The details on the skirts and dresses looked amazing, and when Karlie Kloss walked the runway in that fairy-tale dress, the only thought that is still is in mind: New York sirens. At the end there were lots of blue and tourquoise sequins that looked beautiful… I should say that Jason Wu nailed it. Really. These clothes would look lovely in a film… maybe something about luxurious yacht sailing, full of champagne and sirens in the water around? Masterpiece!Slide2Slide5 Slide3 tumblr_msqrhwBTt01rmfv8to1_500 Slide4

Atlas, The Lion

6a00e54ecca8b9883301901e83fb1c970bPhotography: Tim Walker. Stylist: Katie Grand. Models: Karen Elson, Edie Campbell. So, what can be even better than these four all in magazine called LOVE? The Lion called Atlas! Wow, I was waiting for this 10nth issue of LOVE so much time!!! I expected best and here it is! The first editorial is all about Tim Walker’s magical fantasy. A old house somewhere in England, a huge, real lion called Atlas and two beautiful models wearing Haute Couture gowns… Edie looks a bit spooky with this make-up, but it’s still beautiful! LOVE IT!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