Cozy. A Détacher AW17

February 12, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Mona Kowalska differs from the rest of New York pack. Her collections at A Détacher always feel so tranquil and distant from the fuss. No celebrities, no far-fetched venues. It’s oure focus on the clothes. For autumn-winter 2017, the New York-based designer thought of cozy knits – from striped skirt with matching cardigan to wispy in texture sweaters, A Détacher’s clients will have a lot to choose from this autumn in the flagship store on Mulberry street. There was urban-cool tartan plaid; a bit of florals on the baggy dresses; lovely ‘townhouse’ print on sweatshirts. Daily essentials, which can be worn in many ways, according to your mood.

Warm Up. Pringle of Scotland Pre-Fall’17

January 7, 2017January 7, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Fran Stringer became the creative director of Pringle of Scotland – the Scottish, 200-years old knitwear house – about a year ago. Looking at the brand’s past collections, and at Stringer’s outings, one thing is quite clear at the very first glance. Pringle of Scotland is the go-to label for anything that’s knitted, in a cool way. Fusing the brand’s archival codes and her own ‘loose’ aesthetic, Fran delivered a brilliant pre-fall collection filled with printed cashmere ponchos, over-sized The Fair Isle sweaters and argyle-patterned cardigans. While it’s freezing outside, you just wish to be covered up with all those absolutely non-itchy wool pieces.

Feather-Light. Ryan Roche SS17

September 12, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Ryan Roche is New York’s go-to designer in case of anything connected to timeless, luxurious knitwear. Throughout the few last seasons, she introduced us to the most fleecy, cashmere cardigans and sweaters ever. Also, she’s the modern-day queen of beige – in fact, a majority of her looks are kept in different shades of this warm, underrated colour. Yes, that sounds like a strong foundation for a brand to stay in its comfort zone. But Roche won’t rest on her laurels anytime soon.

Spring-summer 2017 was Ryan’s first runway show, and that let her present a visual experience for he guests. Julian MacKay, a soloist with the Mikhailovsky ballet, travelled from St. Petersburg to stage a dancing performance among the designers’ models dressed in knitted skirts and evening wear. The lightness of those knits is comparable to MacKay’s grace. The clothes were so different comparing to the last seasons, and that felt really exciting about Roche’s outing. Margiela-like, leg-of-mutton sleeves came with white blazers; romantic lace appeared in slip-tops and dreamy, maxi dresses. Cashmere scarves and shawls were worn the Marlene Dietrich way – so soigné! With the help of a new Italian factory, Ryan created her version of a suit – high-waisted trousers cinched at the waist and a semi-cardigan with light knit cables. Seeing Roche on new ground is one of my favourite moments of this New York Fashion Week so far.

Autumn Dibs from A Détacher

September 3, 2016September 3, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

I’m not suggesting that this look from A Détacher‘s brilliant autumn-winter 2016 show is perfectly fit for yak pastures. But it looks so, so autumnal. It says “hello October forest walks,” or “November evenings are welcome” to me. First, have a glance at the layering. A beige, V-cut sweater under a brown blazer seems easy – but looking down, we’ve got those knitted pants with a buttoned, cardigan-like trompe l’oeil idea. Second, the way Mona Kowalska considers wearing a wool beanie (or rather two wool beanies). She’s like your mum – she wants to keep you extra warm this season, so you want catch a cold.

Bye, Sonia

August 25, 2016August 25, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Sonia Rykiel has passed away today in the morning, leaving the world of fashion cry.

Throughout her career, Rykiel was called ‘The Undisputed Queen of Knitwear‘, while her fashion – the quintessence of Parisian chic. Her thin jumpers left the neck uncluttered, giving French women comfort of ready-to-wear and a sense of freedom. Sonia’s timeless designs were expressed in every possible version of knitwear, from the warmest mohair to the softest jersey. During her first successes in the 60s, her brand’s tricot pieces absolutely differed from old, heavy silhouettes. Also, she created the myth of St. Germain girl – a Parisian femme, who lives on the Left Bank (very likely next to her first flagship store on Boulevard du St. Germain, opened back in 1968) and lives her effortless, care-free life. But most of all, Sonia Rykiel’s fashion was frivolous, feminine and relaxed, and it brought happiness to the clients and the industry. Her legacy still does.

Current creative director of the house is Julie de Libran, who succeeds in continuing Sonia’s legacy. As for a little cheer-up – Libran’s furry tote from her recent autumn-winter 2016 collection. At least, we are sure that Rykiel’s label is in good hands.

But still, Sonia will be sorely missed.