Sensual. Tory Burch Resort 2024

Tory Burch herself is always in motion, which might be why she’s been leaning into stretch fabrics and lean, almost athletic shapes recently. Last September at her brilliant spring show she introduced a modular concept that combined a stretch top and tube skirt with capri-length leggings, or teamed a stretch top and a part-opaque, part-sheer skirt. For resort, there’s a pair of dresses that recreate the color-blocking of those looks – same big impact but in a couldn’t-be-easier all-in-one shape. The deep-V sweaters accompanied by sheer turtleneck dickeys here do the same thing: you get the look of layers in one completist piece. “I wanted clean lines,” Burch said of the latest offering. That translated to aerodynamic jersey tees and narrow skirts shown in monochrome white or navy blue punctuated only with a studded hip-slung belt, or to a leather handkerchief top embellished with more of those silver studs paired with mannish, straight-cut trousers. The tailoring is minimal and stripped of any visible hardware. Minimal but sensual is the message behind a trio of special dresses that take their cues from ballerina’s tutus. Combining a stretch tulle bodice with a fluid skirt draped from curved underwire, they don’t cling to the body but rather seem to float on top of it. Pairing them with skimmer flats, Burch seemed to be returning to a point she’s been driving home for a couple of years now, that for this designer comfort and glamour are inextricably intertwined.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Don’t forget to follow Design & Culture by Ed on Instagram! By the way, did you know that I’ve started a newsletter called Ed’s Dispatch? Click here to subscribe!

NET-A-PORTER Limited

A Lady with A Twist. Creatures of The Wind AW16

_MON0954

Shane Gabier and Christopher Peters kick off the New York Fashion Week on Design & Culture by Ed with one of their most mature collections to date. Not only because it feels like the Creatures of The Wind girl has changed into a woman – but also, the identity of the eponymous label seems to be much more recognizable. For the autumn-winter 2016 season, the designer duo staged a feminine, yet quirky outing of V-neck dresses made from lace and textile patches, mink coats and to die for slip-tops with autumnal leave prints. The collection blurs between playful Couregges-like polished leather mini-dresses and much more toned, mature pencil skirts and turtlenecks – meanwhile the geometrical jackets, as the brands’ Instagram feed suggests, are all about Ettore Sottsass graphic, visual vision. Good to see that the boys behind Creatures of The Wind show off their other, much more lady-like side – and present something infinitely New York. Both eclectic, and individual.

Slide1-kopia

Slide2

Slide4

Slide3

Slide1-kopia 4

Chateau Walk. The Row SS16

the-row-spring-2016-rtw-01

It’s a common thing for luxury houses to change the locations for their fashion shows. The Row did not show in its hometown, New York, but shifted to Paris, where, as Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen explained, “many of our customers are, who we want to support. As you see, we are having a show in a chateau, 45 minutes outside Paris.” But did this major change influenced somehow the clothes? The Olsen sisters kept it close to their very American style – straight-lines and loose silhouettes looked ultimately The Row. In reality, no big deal – the designers constantly play wih their signature blanket ponchos, maxi dresses and lady-like pyjama looks. However, after seeing this collection, I have an impression that Olsen sisters want to transform The Row into the next Hermes – luxe-loafers and these croco-leather bags don’t make me think of an eponymous label anymore. Just like the serene model-walk around the chateau’s garden.

Slide10-kopia

Slide12-kopia

Slide11-kopia

Slide13-kopia

New Lady-Like. Rochas AW15

MARC0009a

Alessandro Dell’Acqua of No21 makes the legendary Rochas house alive! And his AW15, the third runway collection for this label, is ultra-cool in it’s feminity. As it’s the 90th birthday of the historical Parisian house created and found by Marcel Rochas, the new Italian designer presented a refreshing view on women’s wardrobe. The dresses were lady-like, with ribbons, archive heritage-bird prints and ruffles – but the shoes had punky studs on. And if we contrast that with sheer silk skirts… then the overall result is a bomb. Just like the warm yellow colour which appeared on Maja Salamon and Molly Blair. We can’t wait for more, Alessandro!

By me for nuicons.com

_A2X0047

MARC0150

MARC0215

MARC0264

MARC0379

_A2X0768

MARC0711

MARC0787

SJP is in The House. Tome AW15

TOM_0004

Oh my gosh, Sarah Jessica Parker designed the shoes for Tome’s AW15 collection! I mean, the collection feels slight Sex and The City… But instead of that super hot news, I must admit – Tome is getting better and better every season. Their beautiful diverse selection of models just make all these shirt-like dresses and stripey pantalons look feminine and fresh at the same time. Lilac turtlenecks are fine, too! These lady-like clothes and SHOES will make women feel like a woman.

TOM_0023

TOM_0046

TOM_0071

TOM_0119

TOM_0177

TOM_0187

TOM_0224

TOM_0334