Bourgeois Chic. Lanvin AW20

Bruno Sialelli grows up at Lanvin. His autumn-winter 2020 outing was his most convincing outing yet and might be the right starting point for the new Lanvin image. The designer approached the beautiful value of Jeanne Lanvin’s legacy, creating an elegant, bourgeois-chic collection. There were plenty of Sialelli’s favorite tailored outerwear pieces with oversized or fur-textured collars – that’s the part he just can’t skip in his post-Loewe work. However, these were less oversophisticated with overelaborate styling. What else pleased? Some “playful” accessories that will surely attract a young customer: a lipstick pendant, a ceramic fox face bracelet, the patisserie-box bags. The clothes are refined and definitely will be cherished by more mature ones. Big bravos for casting Paloma Elsesser – seeing an over-sized model in Paris is great, and I hope it will be the new norm since this season.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Men’s – Corto Maltese. Lanvin AW20

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Bruno Sialelli seems to finally find his ground at Lanvin – even though I’m not sure if the customer is ready to come back to the brand’s stores. For the men’s autumn-winter 2020 collection, the designer took creative license from Hugo Pratt’s Corto Maltese series of comics. Corto Maltese began in the 1960s and it charted the progress of a tough but tender maritime adventurer who encounters some of the early 20th century’s most important figures and is a bit like one of Joseph Conrad’s questing captain protagonists. Sialelli likes seasonal graphics, and he incorporated this character on shirting and outerwear. It looks good, but I don’t see any connection to Lanvin. And we already have a bunch of designers who do eclectic, random style. While most of the garments were quite unamusing, they were helped by accessories (think beanies covered in sequins and necklaces with faux shark teeth). The one area in which this collection was somehow really attractive was the 1990s skate culture influences that included super oversized sneakers and voluminous silhouettes. Taking a look at women’s pre-fall, which was also present in the line-up, I have an impression that designers this season think that if they have Bella and Gigi Hadid as the models, the job is done.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.