Men’s – Future Vamps. JW Anderson AW16

January 11, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Jonathan Anderson takes his brand, and his creative vision, to a totally undiscovered and widely misunderstood field. You can love it, hate it, ignore it or praise it – but still, J.W. Anderson is the most absorbing brand coming from London. The city buzzed about the menswear show for autumn-winter 2016 season a long time before the show-day – it was reported that the brand will live-stream the fashion show on a dating-app, Grindr, presenting the show within a few seconds to about seven million people. Just like that. Without much effort.

Maybe the PR of Anderson are genius – but surely, the brand knows how to excite in the media sphere. However, streaming the collection on a dating app is not such a strange idea. The codes of the brand are focused on “future”, and “perversity” – somehow, a dating app is all about sex and modern way of life, right? And the collection for men definitely didn’t lack any of those. The looks, which fused the everyday basics, like a chunky cardigan or a simple, British mackintosh coat, had something modernistic about them – new, over-sized silhouettes, high-tech fabrics (take a look at this transparent, organza-like piece, printed with a dog called Bonzo from the 20s) and the seriously ugly planet-Zenon trainers with pastel-pink toe. But still, these techno vamps had something to do with a perverse, clubbing manner – the models’ hair, which was held back, looked dirty from a hard night out. Some wore perspex chokers, modestly ornamented with silver studs – and some had those cheesy hoop ball earrings on. To make even more extraordinary, one look was focused on a camel coat, worn over a naked body, and a pair of, again, Zenon shoes.

But looking back at the animals in the collection – everybody noticed the turquoise snails, which were lazily stuck to a rabbit-fur jacket and a white pea-coat. Was Jonathan trying to convey a message? SLOW DOWN? The frustration of fashion’s speed, which made Alber and Raf say “bye” to Lanvin and Dior, is a struggle for most of young designers, as they need to be creative for 24/7, do their best to afford pre-collections and have a perfect, on-time stock for the retailers. Or maybe, Anderson ironically said “catch me if you can” to all the others in the industry? This guy is a real propeller of ideas, so why not show it off in the most bright and bold aspect of the collection?

Men’s – Contemporary Uniform. Casely Hayford AW16

January 10, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

If talking of London’s menswear brands, Casely Hayford is the closest to my heart, style and wardrobe. I just love how this fashion-family duo, Charlie and Joe, reconstruct daily basics into something exciting and beautiful. The best example is the MA1 inspired parka above. Definitely, this piece totally changes the meaning of a jacket / coat – it’s both functional and mind-blowing with its elongated silhouette and the “unfinished” manner. Masterfully styled with these sleek, burgundy pants and a simple black top, this look might be called the contemporary uniform. Just like most of the collection – see the patched-work denim, psychedelic prints on casual suits and uber-cool sweat-shirts. To give a military swing to the collection, Casely Hayford nailed two looks with an ornamented, officer collar – a bold detail which makes this collection blur the everyday clothes with something much more bold and unexpected.

Men’s: Sport? Christopher Shannon AW14

January 10, 2014January 11, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Never heard of him, but I like it. Who made sportswear so different like Christopher Shannon? Ordinary Adidas tracksuits changes into not ordinary costume made of one pair of sweatpants and two blouses. Then, keeping it still chunky and sporty, a LONG sweater comes around. I think it might be a dress, but who knows? And then the unhealthy part- cigarettes. Located on knitwear, colourful cigarette boxes appear. Strange. This is certainly some kind of manifest between healthy life and couch potato lifestyle.

Men’s: Warm. Burberry AW14

January 10, 2014January 11, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

What I enjoyed about Burberry’s men collection was the warmth coming from it. The models walking around the Kensington Pavilion in London wore floral shirts covered with graphic wool blankets and fur coats… Everything mixed with white tank tops underneath and very British brogues, Christopher Bailey did an amazing job at Burberry this season, I must admit. It was a bit romantic, a bit dandy, but very masculine and cool for modern men. And not only for a business meeting!

Men’s: Hyper-Oriental. KTZ AW14

January 10, 2014January 11, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

KTZ is the moments hottest London based label. Known for it’s rebellious style, it already has big group of fans who wear only the characteristic black & white “yeezy” hype pieces of sweatshirts and sweatpants. But to date, the AW14 collection was the best. Influenced by oriental culture of Middle East, the totally white collection made a big WOW from the mouths of show guests… The parachute coat, HOLY sweatshirt and all these head pieces look so cool and fresh! And the thought that it’s not all in fussy colours but kept in black & white… KTZ is the most desired luxury menswear label for now (Instagram is buzzing about all the time!) and definitely this collection will be best-seller when it hits the stores.