Trust Sarah Burton to choose the most haunting and beautifully strange show setting of LCM. In the austere rooms of Soho’s Welsh Presbyterian Chapel, Alexander McQueen men’s show went on. With the super dull faces of the models, the black & white show full of coats, sweaters and serious blazers took it’s place. Inspired with Yohji Yamamoto’s archive collections, McQueen offered gold brushed jackets, black coats with different “signs” and printed shirts. Maybe it was a bit… dark and sullen, but the pink checked look let some ray of light inside the venue.
LCM
Men’s: Survive. Raeburn AW14
Survivalist chic: heavy environmental politics underpinned a collection of arctic coats, heavy duty boots and polar bear prints. This is what Christopher Raeburn’s AW14 collection for men looked like. With some long, fur coats and warm orange jackets, this collection is one of my favourites this season. It looks masculine, comfortable and cool- just what menswear should be like. I’m yours, Raeburn!
Men’s: Future. JW Anderson AW14
Is it the upcoming future for men? Will we, men, wear boxy clutches, colourful bracelet, kimono/dresses and shoes on high platforms? J.W. Anderson tells us the strange future in his recent collection. What I admire about him, is that he really creates something new, something fresh- and no body will tell him STOP. Known for androgynous fashion, Anderson did a very unisex collection- well, it could be worn also by women. While looking at it, it looks a bit out of world… but who knows. Maybe the world will be such a strange place, that men will wear these outfits? For now… don’t think so.
Men’s: Power. Kane AW14
Christopher Kane is moment’s biggest designer from UK. His inspiration taken from science, work good for women and for men… And we know that from his previous collections (NOTE: AW13 chemistry theme and SS14 biological flower anatomy)! The menswear AW14 collection was a mix of elegant clothes and prints that was full of nuclear power- my favourite piece from the collection was definitely the printed t-shirt with an atom motive on. With Christopher Kane, we are getting really cosmic now!
Men’s: Ceremony. Craig Green AW14
Craig Green, one of the menswear designer of MAN LCM in London, showed his new show yesterday. Known for wooden structures and dyed costumes worn by men, Green changed his fashion perspective into something more ready-to-wear. His AW14 collection was all about hand-painted utilitarian coats and harness accessories. The models went down the runway in long, oversized coats, reassembling a pilgrim or something like that… The collection felt a bit mysterious and harsh. But- the clothes were beautiful. Dark, hand painted cotton robes and trousers are the new fashion ceremonials created by the fresh face of London menswear scene, Craig Green!
Design & Culture by Ed 