The Brand To Buy In. Talia Byre SS27

September 21, 2026 | Design & Culture by Ed

Similarly to A Letter and Christopher Kane’s Mulberry, Talia Byre represents a breed of London brands that are after clothes with substance. Forget anything remotely frou-frou or “art student chaos”. These aren’t garments that force you to be “a real woman in the real world” (whatever that means in 2026) – they actually let you be you.

I have a great affection for Talia Lipkin-Connor’s work. It reminds me of the innocently funky spirit of Phoebe Philo’s Chloé days: pieces that do the work, but are also made for having fun in. A white apron dress worn over a pair of matching trousers? Why not. A shearling vest that’s just ridiculously easy to style? Absolutely. Little heeled sandals with cargo pants? As simple as that.

Frankly, thee aren’t many brands doing this kind of fashion anymore. Isabel Marant used to be one; Stella McCartney, a long time ago, was another. There’s certainly a niche here to fill – and retailers should keep Talia Byre firmly on their radars.

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Punchy. Mulberry by Christopher Kane SS27

September 21, 2026 | Design & Culture by Ed

We’re so lucky to see Christopher Kane back in the game. Fashion really missed his highly erotic, quirky unobviousness. And London Fashion Week was in a dire need for a good debut – so the Mulberry appointment couldn’t make more sense.

Kane kicked off this new chapter with a refreshing clean slate, brushing away the brand’s dusty, boho-ish residue and repositioning it as the cool thing. Wasn’t that always the point of Mulberry bags and their It-girl appeal? The designer came up with very, very cool-looking leathers – from minimal black dresses to substantial coats – signalling Mulberry’s new ambition to become London’s go-to name for leather, just as Bottega Veneta is in Milan. What worked especially well were the countryside-perfect essentials, purified to their core: a checked short-sleeved shirt, a proper down jacket, a classic V-neck sweater. Grounded clothes, subtly tweaked in proportion in that very Christopher Kane kind of sexy way.

I even loved the exaggeration of the logo sweatshirt, worn with a white pencil skirt and a pair of pumps. It felt punchy and cheeky. Brands like Mulberry are among the hardest to revive, but Kane has laid some very solid foundations for making this work.

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Murder In The English Country. Simone Rocha SS27

September 20, 2026 | Design & Culture by Ed

Simone Rocha’s collection immediately took me back to the now-vintage “Poirot” series starring David Suchet – but also to “Miss Marple“, played by Geraldine McEwan. Whenever there was a bloody murder in one of those English country houses, the Agatha Christie detective would arrive at the crime scene, and somehow all the house guests would be dressed to the nines. The women – both the suspected murderers and those who seemed completely innocent – looked as if they might be ready for a ball at any moment.

For spring-summer 2027, Rocha is in a similar soirée mood, with echoes of interwar elegance. Yet alongside rosette-shaped gowns, organza boas and dropped-waist dresses, there were sturdier leathers and flashes of skin that would have been scandalous in the aforementioned society. At times, Simone returned to her eternal Rei Kawakubo obsession via Cristóbal Balenciaga-esque matryoshka hoods (very matriarchy). But the designer’s real strength lies in those barely-there, billowy dresses that are unmistakably hers. Now, who’s the killer?

ED’s SELECTION:

Simone Rocha Bow-detailed Gathered Taffeta Blouse

Simone Rocha Floral Lace Embroidered Leather Slip-ons

Simone Rocha Layered Pleated Silk-organza Midi Skirt

Simone Rocha Silver-tone Crystal Necklace

Simone Rocha Ruffled Floral-print Pointelle-knit Cotton-jersey Leggings

Simone Rocha Lace-up Merino Wool-blend Scarf

Simone Rocha Bow-embellished Embroidered Organza Midi Dress

The Doll. A Letter SS27

September 20, 2026 | Design & Culture by Ed

I love the honesty, sincerity, and, above all, playfulness of A Letter’s clothes. The London-based label, founded by Matt Empringham and Freddy Coombes, makes seemingly “normal” clothes that always hide a weird little tweak or twist. Their dresses look as if they’ve been taken straight out of a vintage dollhouse, yet the radically minimal silhouettes and clean lines keep them from becoming saccharine. Instead, they’re elegant – elegantly odd.

The shapes are subtly inflated, while the lengths are cut as if they’re just a few centimeters too high. There’s also a quietly fetishistic undertone hiding in the seams – blink, and you might miss the transparent PVC back of a 1950s-inspired dress. Yet Empringham and Coombes never shock simply for the sake of shock. Their fashion isn’t interested in Instagram dressing. It’s for girls who dare to be themselves, with A Letter acting almost like a little sexy envelope they can choose to dress themselves up in. Brands like this are what make London Fashion Week worth paying attention to.

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Not Enough. Burberry AW26

February 25, 2026February 24, 2026 | Design & Culture by Ed

Nobody captured London’s current predicament more vividly than Daniel Lee at Burberry. With this duo, it’s either a hit or a miss. This season, unfortunately, it was the latter, proving that as the seasons pass, Burberry is no longer capable of sparking emotion. There is nothing worse than a show that leaves you indifferent – it might as well have been an email. READ MY FULL REVIEW HERE.